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| Question about replacing a bridge. http://w-ww.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=2194 |
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| Author: | Colby Horton [ Wed Jun 15, 2005 12:07 am ] |
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A friend of mine wants me to replace the bridge on his Gallagher. The one on the guitar is cracked real bad. My question is could I copy the bridge exact and rout the saddle slot before I glue the bridge to the guitar? The professional way would probably be to glue down the new bridge and then rout the slot with a saddle slot routing jig to be sure you get the slot in just the right spot. |
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| Author: | crazymanmichael [ Wed Jun 15, 2005 12:20 am ] |
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replacing and then setting intonation before slotting is technically the best method, but may give a different result both tonally and visually, and the client should be made aware of this. if the client was totally happy with it the way it was built, doing as you suggested may be the best way to keep him happy. and i forgot to mention, client should be made aware of the extra cost of doing it the better way. |
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| Author: | Pwoolson [ Wed Jun 15, 2005 12:23 am ] |
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You also might check with Gallagher. They might be willing to supply you with a bridge of exact dimensions to the existing one and you won't have finish issues to deal with. As a builder, I would ceratainly replace a cracked bridge as a warranty issue, regardless of the humidity issues that most likely cracked it. It's worth a phone call. Other than that, CrazyMan is right on track. Slotting after is the best method for perfect intonation but might render a funny looking/sounding guitar is it wasn't spot on in the first place. |
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| Author: | Mjoy [ Wed Jun 15, 2005 2:18 am ] |
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Hi Colby, Ragardless of what your choice is on replacement and slot cutting, be sure to check the pin holes and bridge plate. A failed bridge plate due to inferior wood/grain, exposure to heat (car in summer) or, most likely, consistantly putting strings on improperly, is usually the major cause of a cracked bridge. If there is an unaddressed issue there, all your good work on the bridge may go for naught. --Mark |
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| Author: | CarltonM [ Wed Jun 15, 2005 4:34 am ] |
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Colby, Are you certain the original bridge is unredeemable? If there are no pieces missing, you might be able to remove it, glue it back together, and reinstall it. Repair is always preferable to replacement when you consider the future value of the instrument, unless functionality is compromised. Carlton |
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| Author: | Jeff Doty [ Wed Jun 15, 2005 4:39 am ] |
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Good advice! Things I would have never thought of. This is why I try to read every thread. Always good information, and something to be learned. Jeff |
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| Author: | Colby Horton [ Wed Jun 15, 2005 7:00 am ] |
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I’m pretty sure the bridge has to be replaced. Even if you tried to tell him it could be glued, he would still rather have the bridge replaced. He also said this is not the first time the bridge as come apart. I don’t think getting a replacement from Gallagher would work because this guitar was made way back years ago. I think he said in the 70's. The bridge has also been modified in several ways. It looks like it is about 1/4" or 5/16" thick, (haven’t been able to measure it) and it has an angle across the top to improve the string angle behind the saddle. Probably compensating for the neck pulling up and almost needing a reset. It could have been made this way I guess, but I don’t think so. It also has a L.R. Baggs saddle pickup, So I can’t be replacing the saddle. Also I forgot to mention in my post earlier, I don’t have a saddle slot routing jig thats why I wanted to see what ya’ll thought about routing the slot before glueing. He said he didn’t know if the intonation has been just right or not. I assume this means it is O.K. So what do think, make a new bridge exactly like the old one in every way. Glue it in the same exact spot and I should be O.K. right? |
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| Author: | crazymanmichael [ Wed Jun 15, 2005 7:42 am ] |
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the history of bridge failure is worrying! 1/4" is a very thin bridge, and if it is made with the grain parallel to the slot and quarter sawn you are asking for the bridge to fail again. you will want the wood to be well off quarter, say 45 degrees, and the grain running opposite to the direction of the saddle. and you will want to keep the saddle slot as shallow as possible whilst still giving adequate support. and i am wondering if that last is a practical possibility. you should probably take a look at the neck angle. if a reset is necessary you will not be able to get a truly satisfactory result. it may be time for him to bite the bullet, do a proper job for a good old guitar and have you put a bridge of suitable thickness on and reset the neck. then his problems should over for a long time. |
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