John, I agree that a wooden tabletop would be in order. However, shims shouldn't be necessary. Just use the very sanding disk that you have to true the top to the spindle and then bolt or clamp it down.
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| Author: | John Elshaw [ Thu Jun 30, 2005 6:49 am ] |
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I have a Gilbert sanding disk which I use in my drill press. My drill press is square side to side, but is not perfectly square front to back. If I run a board through the disk from the side, it takes more material off from the back than the front. I don't see anyway to adjust the table front-to-back. Am I missing something here or are most drill presses not adjustable front-to-back? Thanks! John |
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| Author: | crazymanmichael [ Thu Jun 30, 2005 7:13 am ] |
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all that i have seen lack any front to back adjustment. best solution is to make an auxillary table that you can shim level. |
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| Author: | John How [ Thu Jun 30, 2005 7:59 am ] |
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I know that my drill press has some slop in it IF it is not tightend up. In other words if I adjust it up and down but don't lock it in place, it sags a little and it will raise a measureable amount when I lock it up. |
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| Author: | Mike Mahar [ Thu Jun 30, 2005 8:22 am ] |
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This is something you should fix regardless of the sanding disk. Most tools have a table that bolts on and that is were you should make adjustments. That may mean you have to get some calibrated shim washers. Or you can get some sheet brass from the hardware store and cut your own shims. |
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| Author: | CarltonM [ Thu Jun 30, 2005 8:31 am ] |
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I've got the same problem on my "Acme"-type brand press, and was reminded that ya gets what ya pays for. I've tried shims in every possible location, to no avail. I'm building a table for it. Carlton |
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| Author: | Don A [ Thu Jun 30, 2005 8:35 am ] |
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I'd really consider building a drill press table and shim it to square. Check out this link. The extra space is great. |
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| Author: | JJ Donohue [ Fri Jul 01, 2005 2:26 am ] |
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Don...I'm always amazed at how you so often seem to have the right link to so many of the questions that come up here on the forum. I'd love to know how you always seem to have this info at your fingertips. I dub thee "The Librarian". BTW...I made a similar table (1.5" thick Baltic Birch) for the same reason and it works. |
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| Author: | Darin Spayd [ Fri Jul 01, 2005 3:10 am ] |
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John, I agree that a wooden tabletop would be in order. However, shims shouldn't be necessary. Just use the very sanding disk that you have to true the top to the spindle and then bolt or clamp it down.
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| Author: | tippie53 [ Sat Jul 02, 2005 12:51 pm ] |
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There should be some kind of adjustment for square. Look close at the mount on the table. If the table is off then as you move the table the table will loose true until it is back to the original postion. |
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| Author: | RussellR [ Sat Jul 02, 2005 9:38 pm ] |
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My one has two Grub Screws for adjustment |
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| Author: | Anthony Z [ Mon Jul 04, 2005 7:01 am ] |
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John I have a radial arm drill press (made in China) that goes out of level every once in awhile. I build a 1/2" MDF table for mine that I shim with brass shim stock and sometimes scraps of veneer. To check your level ... take 6" scrap of 1/4" or 1/2" ply. In one end drill a quarter inch hole for a 1/4"-20 carriage bolt. In the other end do the same and insert and fasten the carriage bolts opposite to each other. Chuck one end in the drill press ... and rotate the spindle....if the other end clears or touches slightly as you spin it...your table is flush. |
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