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| M/T neck joint diminsions http://w-ww.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=3179 |
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| Author: | Barry Dudley [ Sun Sep 11, 2005 12:59 am ] |
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Can a few of you M/T neck folks give up the diminsions you use for your neck joint? I have always used the old Spanish foot method (classicals)and have decide to try makeing the neck and body seperate. I bought 2 molds from Blues Creek and I'm ready to go!! |
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| Author: | tippie53 [ Sun Sep 11, 2005 2:14 am ] |
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Most of the M&T neck and blocks are in the .750 range. The tenon is about 3/8" shy of the bottom of the block. Martin uses a slightly different neck size than Stew Mack and LMI is differnent that the other 2 but all are around this 3/4 inch. If you stay in the same range your neck will be plenty strong john |
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| Author: | RussellR [ Sun Sep 11, 2005 3:06 am ] |
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Hi Barry My mortice is 22mm wide as I use the system of Cross Dowels as developed by William Campiano. I find this gives enough meat either side of the dowel. I also chose 22mm as I have a cutter this size. |
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| Author: | Sprockett [ Sun Sep 11, 2005 10:14 am ] |
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3/4" wide and 1" deep in it's current incarnation, my new one will be 3/4" wide and 3/4" deep and use inserts as opposed the barrel bolts in the Cumpiano design. Cheers -Paul- |
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| Author: | old man [ Sun Sep 11, 2005 1:31 pm ] |
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Hey, Paul Have you been using the barrel nuts? If so, why are you going back to an insert? Ron |
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| Author: | Sprockett [ Sun Sep 11, 2005 2:24 pm ] |
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I have always used Barrel Bolts but, now that I have a number of guitars behind me I'm looking for ways to do a couple of things. 1. Find ways to save weight, however little.. 2. Make assembly and setup easier. The barrel bolts are a pain to install (IMHO), I have to drill cross wise holes, I have to grind down the barrels to be 3/4" thick or they hang up. You don't need all that much strength to hold the neck in, a number of builders are using the inserts without problems and given the reasons above I think it's time to switch. Cheers -Paul- |
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| Author: | Rod True [ Sun Sep 11, 2005 4:02 pm ] |
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I used the barrel bolts (as per Cumpiano's new info on his site) on my first guitar and when I was doing the final assembly (after paying $400 for my finish job) the bottom barrel bolt split the bottom of the heal on my neck. I pulled the neck off and looked at the damage. The heal was held on by mostly the finish and a little mahogany. I glued it up and than doweled in the barrel bolt holes. I drilled and installed a 1/2 dowel vertically up the tennon and drilled for inserts from the local Home Depot. I still have a nice crack in the finish to remind me to use inserts. I will never try the barrel bolts again. The design of the system doesn't make much sense to me now that I have thought about it. The grain of the neck runs parrallel to the length of the neck, now we drill a hole through the tennon, weakening the wood. We insert a steel pin in the hole and tighten it up with a bolt. That pin is wanting to push the grain apart just from the tension focused at one point of the hole. Looking at the failed tennon on my guitar was evidence enough to me that this could happen again. Has anyone else ever had this happen with the Barrel bolts? Or is it just me? Epoxy in a threaded insert and it will require more force to pull that insert out of the end grain than it would be to split the tennon along a grain line. Thant's my 2 cents worth anyway. |
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| Author: | Rod True [ Sun Sep 11, 2005 4:04 pm ] |
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To answer the dimensions question. 3/4" wide tennon and mortice in the head block with a 3/4" long tennon, 7/8" deep mortice, before the sides are on. |
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| Author: | Sprockett [ Sun Sep 11, 2005 4:21 pm ] |
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Rod I had it happen on my first two.... My solution was to move the barrel bolts to the edge of the heel, giving them lots of wood (one reason for my deep tenon of 1"). Since making this change I've not had any problems but as stated after building a number of them like this inserts are the way to go.. Cheers -paul- |
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