I use an LN 4-1/2 with a simple shooting board setup, it's a little short but it does the job just fine.
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| Author: | Andy Zimmerman [ Tue Oct 04, 2005 4:07 am ] |
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Hi I don't own a jointer and I am wondering if anyone uses a hand jointer. There are some nice 24" jointers available. Doing it by hand seems like a nice option. What is the consenscious? Andy |
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| Author: | LanceK [ Tue Oct 04, 2005 4:12 am ] |
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Andy, lots of folks use a shooting board and a plane, its a great choice! |
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| Author: | Brock Poling [ Tue Oct 04, 2005 4:26 am ] |
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I have stanley #6, #7, and #8 planes. I think the 7 and 8 are a little too big to use effectively. Right now I have been using a #5 and #6 about equally. These seem to be a little easier to handle. I have been looking at the Lie Neilsen #9 Miter plane though, but I suspect that isn't going to improve my results. Hope this helps. |
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| Author: | Tom Dowey [ Tue Oct 04, 2005 4:38 am ] |
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The hand jointers (power)are not effective for joining the thin guitar plates. A shooting board and hand plane work very well. For me I have always used Shooting Board with a #7 Stanley and that works well for me. Some people use a jig and a router. Other people have had success with sandpaper stuck on the bottom of a level. There are many ways to skin a cat. |
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| Author: | letseatpaste [ Tue Oct 04, 2005 5:00 am ] |
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I use an LN 4-1/2 with a simple shooting board setup, it's a little short but it does the job just fine.
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| Author: | Colin S [ Tue Oct 04, 2005 5:37 am ] |
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I also just use a 41/2, in my case an old Stanley, with a similar set up to Jon. However I also have a longer piece of wood underneath the top or back pieces and level with their front edge that also gets planed along with them. This is a sacrificial piece that is long enough so that the whole plane is in contact at both ends of the run against the top/back boards. I find, helps to keep the plane running straight at the ends of the boards. (My planing technique needs all the help it can get) Colin |
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| Author: | RussellR [ Tue Oct 04, 2005 6:36 am ] |
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Hi Andy I use an old record No 5 Plane and a shooting board, I have made one with Toggle clamps all round, as I like the material to be held really firmly. |
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| Author: | Wade Sylvester [ Tue Oct 04, 2005 6:40 am ] |
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Thanks for that tip Colin! I can see how that would help for a nice straight run across the whole edge. I use a shooting board setup based on the Cumpiano book. It seems to work well for those of us who don't get it right the first time. I also use a florescent lamp mounted up the wall for candling to check how tight I shot the edge. Wade |
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| Author: | Dave Rector [ Tue Oct 04, 2005 6:46 am ] |
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Wade, that flourescent light on the wall idea is a good one! Thanks! |
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| Author: | Michael Dale Payne [ Tue Oct 04, 2005 6:47 am ] |
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Andy I use a #5 and sometimes a #7 plane on a shooting board. I have use 80 grit adhesive back paper on a 36" precision milled level with good success. StewMac sells a precision milled piece of aluminum tubing for fretboard leveling that would be good for this as well. I don't think you would be happy with the results of a hand powered jointer. A plane and shooting board. gives as good of results as you could ask for, and takes no more time than a power jointer after you get the knack, less when you figure set-up time on the power jointer. A finely sharpened plane blade is required. |
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| Author: | Andy Zimmerman [ Tue Oct 04, 2005 7:13 am ] |
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Thanks for the info. It seem few of you use a #7 jointer. It seem you prefer the shorter bench/ jack planes. Is this because it is easier to use, or is it because that is what you have and it can serve more functions. Andy |
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| Author: | JJ Donohue [ Tue Oct 04, 2005 7:15 am ] |
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Ditto on the plane (#6) and a sharp Hock blade |
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| Author: | RussellR [ Tue Oct 04, 2005 7:24 am ] |
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Colin I love the idea of the extension to prevent any run off. Wade I think the flourescent Light is a Great idea too. Thought I would post a couple of Pics of my shooting board , the side bar moves in and out for different widths of board and is locked via the wing nuts. 
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| Author: | Brock Poling [ Tue Oct 04, 2005 7:25 am ] |
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[QUOTE=azimmer1] Thanks for the info. It seem few of you use a #7 jointer. It seem you prefer the shorter bench/ jack planes. Is this because it is easier to use, or is it because that is what you have and it can serve more functions. Andy[/QUOTE] I find the bigger planes are just a little harder to handle. If a handle was on the side (as in the miter plane) it might be easier. |
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| Author: | RussellR [ Tue Oct 04, 2005 7:26 am ] |
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Andy For me on the plane it is because I don't own a jointer and I find the No.5 serves many purposes. |
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| Author: | Michael Dale Payne [ Tue Oct 04, 2005 7:28 am ] |
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Most jointer planes are 14"+ and harder to enter the cut square...I know it is probably me and my technique but a good #7 will do the job just fine. That and it is a more versatile plane. |
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| Author: | Mike Mahar [ Tue Oct 04, 2005 7:32 am ] |
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[QUOTE=MichaelP] Most jointer planes are 14"+ and harder to enter the cut square...I know it is probably me and my technique but a good #7 will do the job just fine. That and it is a more versatile plane.[/QUOTE] I thought a #7 was a jointer plane? Did you mean #5? |
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| Author: | Brock Poling [ Tue Oct 04, 2005 8:24 am ] |
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#7 and #8 are jointer planes. |
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| Author: | Wayne Clark [ Tue Oct 04, 2005 8:32 am ] |
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I use a #5 and a shooting board as well. I have a #7 but it feels too large for working on such small pieces of wood. |
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| Author: | Don A [ Tue Oct 04, 2005 8:38 am ] |
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I recently bought an Anant No. 7 Jointer Plane after JJ recommended them. I haven't used it yet as I haven't had time to tune it but I would think the longer plate would be an advantage. I have a 6 inch Craftsman jointer but have decided to use a shooting board for top/back joining. |
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| Author: | old man [ Tue Oct 04, 2005 1:47 pm ] |
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I haven't managed to buy a decent plane yet, so I sanded. I put a strip of adhesive backed sandpaper on my table saw top and used the fence as a perpendicular guide. Taped the two halves together and slid them back and forth. My join came out so good I decided not to use a backstrip. Ron |
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| Author: | Don A [ Tue Oct 04, 2005 3:34 pm ] |
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[QUOTE=old man] I haven't managed to buy a decent plane yet, so I sanded. I put a strip of adhesive backed sandpaper on my table saw top and used the fence as a perpendicular guide. Taped the two halves together and slid them back and forth. My join came out so good I decided not to use a backstrip. Ron[/QUOTE] Ron, thats how I built my first 2 and they are still holding strong. |
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| Author: | Arnt Rian [ Tue Oct 04, 2005 5:25 pm ] |
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I use a shoothing board and a hand plane too. I have tried to do it with every bench plane size that I own (#4, 5, 5 1/2, 6 and 7). I like the #5 1/2 size best, it's a nice medium size. Heavy enough for a steady and chatter free movement, but not so big and heavy that it becomes unruly. I hold the plates down on against the shoothing board stops by hand so I can check progress constantly. The whole process takes less than 5 minutes. |
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| Author: | Michael Dale Payne [ Wed Oct 05, 2005 12:17 am ] |
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yep I miss typed  My jointer is a #7 I ment #5
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| Author: | Mark Laura [ Wed Oct 05, 2005 3:17 am ] |
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Andy, I posted a similar post to this and received great advice from everybody! My plane it turns out didn't work so good for me...so until I get a new one....I used double stick tape on a level and made a shooting board set-up and clamped in my vise. I leveled my boards and sanded on the top. I was able to see my progress from the side as I sanded. I'm sure this would work with a "good" plane also. I did use the shooting board on a table, but felt more comfortable with the boards in a vise. I am putting my top on an electric. I can't see any light through the seam, so I guess I did all right! 
Mark |
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