Hi Guys,
Is there a glue that I can buy from any hardware store that will allow me to glue plastic binding to wood??
Thanks a bunch.
Walter
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| Author: | WalterK [ Wed Oct 05, 2005 6:42 am ] |
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Hi Guys, Is there a glue that I can buy from any hardware store that will allow me to glue plastic binding to wood?? Thanks a bunch. Walter
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| Author: | Don Williams [ Wed Oct 05, 2005 6:45 am ] |
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It's called Super Glue, aka cyanoacrylate. Specifically, medium thickness, not the thin or thick stuff. Wipe the gluing surface of the binding with acetone first, then glue and tape. Works great, and fast. |
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| Author: | LanceK [ Wed Oct 05, 2005 6:49 am ] |
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DUCO works too - you can also use Titebond if you do like Dons says, wipe the gluing surface with acetate first. |
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| Author: | Don Williams [ Wed Oct 05, 2005 6:57 am ] |
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True, DUCO works very good, but is slower than the CA method. Either way, it will stick! |
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| Author: | Brock Poling [ Wed Oct 05, 2005 7:02 am ] |
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You mean acetone, right? Also, if you use duco... make sure you let the bindings dry for a good long time. They will get a little soft and crumbly if you try to scrape them back too fast. |
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| Author: | Don Williams [ Wed Oct 05, 2005 7:40 am ] |
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D'Oh ! That's twice I messed up this week! Thanks for the correction Brock. Yes, ACETONE. |
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| Author: | arvey [ Wed Oct 05, 2005 8:08 am ] |
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I use C.A. but was reading where you can make a binding paste by melting binding in Acetone. Today I decided to try it as I have some black binding that I didn't get a really good fit on the joint. I put some in acetone but am wondering how How long it should it take? It has been in there for a few hours and is getting a little soft but hasn't turned into a paste yet. |
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| Author: | Brock Poling [ Wed Oct 05, 2005 8:10 am ] |
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I have always used that concoction to fill gaps and get rid of glue lines. Never tried it as actual glue before. If you cut the pieces up really small first it will melt faster. |
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| Author: | arvey [ Wed Oct 05, 2005 11:11 am ] |
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I cut them into fairly small pieces. How long does it ussually take a few hours? A day? In the past I mainly used wood bindings but am having more and more requests for plastic so I suspect I'll be using this concoction more and more. |
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| Author: | Brock Poling [ Wed Oct 05, 2005 11:21 am ] |
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The last time I made it it took a couple of days. |
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| Author: | arvey [ Wed Oct 05, 2005 12:22 pm ] |
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OK that is the one piece of info I didn't read anywhere. I'll try again tommorrow. |
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| Author: | Arnt Rian [ Wed Oct 05, 2005 6:03 pm ] |
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I think it depends on the type of plastic. I have used ivorid which is cellouid plastic as a binding on mandolins and I used pieces of binding material dissolved in acetone as a glue for the miters. I didn't have as much success when I tried to use it to glue the binding to wood with this "glue", and resolved to CA for this. The ivorid pieces dissolved in the acetone in less than an hour. If you are using bolteron or other types of plastic binding material they may not dissolve in acetone at all. At least this is what was reported over on the Mandolin Cafe website when Stewmac stopped carrying all cellouid materials due to hazardous materials shipping regulations. |
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| Author: | Michael Dale Payne [ Thu Oct 06, 2005 12:44 am ] |
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Also helps to cut into small pieces and run through an electric coffee grinder to podwer it. then it only takes a couple min. and is easer to mix up just the amount you need. Use a dedacated coffee grinder or you get a brown paste  
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| Author: | Brock Poling [ Thu Oct 06, 2005 12:49 am ] |
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I bought one specifically dedicated to grinding shellac flakes too. that was a great idea. |
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| Author: | arvey [ Thu Oct 06, 2005 1:39 am ] |
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Yes I have heard this doesn't work well on Wood but is good for joining the plastic to itself. |
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| Author: | tippie53 [ Thu Oct 06, 2005 3:16 am ] |
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I had a binding fail with the titebond method and went back to DUCO. I found that Superglue will leach and on Adirondak spruce it will turn yellow. I will use C/G for touch repair but I like the Duco. john hall |
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| Author: | Anthony Z [ Thu Oct 06, 2005 5:07 am ] |
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John, CA will indeed cause colour from your purfling or binding to leech and discolour your spruce top. One way to avoid that is to put on a washcoat of shellac over a 2-inch perimeter of your spruce top before you cut your binding channel (or after if you so desire). Any leeching can be easily sanded off when you level your purfling/binding. Don, I don't follow why you would use Medium CA? I would think that you'd want to use Thin as you want it too wick well and avoid leaving any visible glue line which CA has a tendency to do. (Just my 2 cents) |
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| Author: | LanceK [ Thu Oct 06, 2005 6:17 am ] |
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Anthony - I believe what John is referring to is the wicking into the end grain of most any top, and your remedy of a wash coat of shellac will fix that as well. |
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| Author: | tippie53 [ Thu Oct 06, 2005 7:24 am ] |
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HI I didn't have much trouble with sitka but the adi really turned yellow. It wasn;t just on end grain. I wasn't the only one that had that problem. My feeling is the resin in the Adi may be a little different an may color. I really havn't a clue but since I stopped using CA as the main glue on the binding my problems cleared up. Amazing what happens with the natrual chemestry isn't it. I do wash coat all tops . Once I join them I raise the grain and shoot 2 coats of sealer . I still got the stain. john |
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| Author: | Anthony Z [ Thu Oct 06, 2005 9:36 am ] |
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Oops sorry John, I misread your earlier post. The chemistry of CA, sealer and Adirondack spruce is beyond me. |
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| Author: | tippie53 [ Thu Oct 06, 2005 10:37 am ] |
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I just want to share my experience so it doesn't happen to anyone else. I don't know why it just seems to happen to adi. I never had a problem with the sitka john PS maybe the ligher wood who knows . |
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| Author: | arvey [ Thu Oct 06, 2005 12:02 pm ] |
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I also had some real yellowing with Red Spruce tops. I now use to coats of Shellack to seal it with. |
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| Author: | Ron Priest [ Thu Oct 06, 2005 2:28 pm ] |
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I use WELD-ON #16 for gluing the celluloid nitrate (Ivoroid). You can get it from LMII or usually from any place where they sell plexiglass. Thats where I buy mine. It works OK but has a very short glue time before it doesn't stick (you can add more and it will stick again). Downside is that you should wait at least 16 hrs. before removing tape or bands. It's relatively cheap and can be used on the ABS so says the Stew Mac web site. It doesn't turn the top yellow like superglue or epoxy does. Does anyone else use this product? |
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| Author: | Brad Goodman [ Thu Oct 06, 2005 2:50 pm ] |
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I have always used the Weld-on #1784 that I buy from LMI for gluing my ABS bindings. It works great,no problems that I can see on 12 year old guitars. I think by it's nature you can glue plastic to wood only so good-it will never bond like plastic to plastic or wood to wood. |
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