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Fretboard radius http://w-ww.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=4167 |
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Author: | Graham Steward [ Mon Dec 19, 2005 9:32 am ] |
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Hey everyone, What fretboard radius do like to use? Is there a reason you use that radius instead of a different one? ![]() Thanks |
Author: | Michael Dale Payne [ Mon Dec 19, 2005 9:53 am ] |
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Ok I tend to make 16" becuse that seams to be what most customers want. I prefer 14" my self because I play more finger style and not a lot of barr chords. I have one client that has a fused second joint in his left index finger that leaves him with a perment bend in that finger, so for him I build 22" radius because it fits the bend of is finger |
Author: | Shane Neifer [ Mon Dec 19, 2005 9:56 am ] |
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In the same vein as Graham's questions, when and why would you use a compound radius and what would those numbers be? I hope this question is OK Graham! Shane |
Author: | Brock Poling [ Mon Dec 19, 2005 10:00 am ] |
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tighter radiuses are said to be more comfortable to play since they follow the curvature of your hand. That was the reason for the vintage Fender numbers. The "problem" comes in when you try to do big string bends on those tight radiuses. You "fret out" a note by the string hitting other frets when bent. Hence the idea of a compound radius. More curved at the nut, and flatter as you move toward the saddle. This fixes the fretting out problem and helps provide consistant action for every string as you move up and down the neck. Dan Erlewine and Don MacRostie have a great write up on this in the StewMac Fretting 1-2-3 book. I have been using 12" at the nut 14" at the 12th fret, and 20" at the saddle. I am using Craig Holden's jig to accomplish this. It is a really great tool. |
Author: | Mattia Valente [ Mon Dec 19, 2005 11:56 am ] |
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So far, 16, but since I've got that set of variable radius fret press cauls coming, methinks I'll go jig up for a compound radius slotting system :-) |
Author: | Jim Watts [ Mon Dec 19, 2005 12:23 pm ] |
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I also build with a compound radius of 14" at the nut and 22" at the 20th fret. I've always done this but I think it's probably a waste of time on an acoustic since you generally don't bend to the extent you would on an electric (generaly I say)I don't believe I've ever freted out an acoutic. You take an electric with super slinky strings and it's a new ballgame! All that said I'll probably ever change the way I do it because I like the way my instruments play ![]() |
Author: | Shane Neifer [ Mon Dec 19, 2005 2:05 pm ] |
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Jim, what is your jig lookin' like? Can you share? ![]() ![]() Thanks Shane |
Author: | ggdelazzer [ Mon Dec 19, 2005 10:36 pm ] |
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I probably missed something on this argumet... Craig can you post drawings or pictures of your jig? Can you radius and even slot with the same one? Sorry, my mind was probably unattentive because of Shane's wonderful tops ![]() Thank you Gg |
Author: | Mattia Valente [ Tue Dec 20, 2005 2:55 am ] |
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[QUOTE=ggdelazzer] I probably missed something on this argumet... Craig can you post drawings or pictures of your jig? Can you radius and even slot with the same one? Sorry, my mind was probably unattentive because of Shane's wonderful tops ![]() Thank you Gg [/QUOTE] Gg, take a peek at the website, www.cthluthiery.com, and look at the jigs. The radiussing and slotting jigs are different, far as I can tell, but the radiussing jig is certainly an elegant solution. |
Author: | RussellR [ Tue Dec 20, 2005 3:16 am ] |
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Mattia I have the radiusing jig and would highly recomend it, it is a great solution and very well made. |
Author: | Jim Watts [ Tue Dec 20, 2005 6:09 am ] |
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Shane, I just have a long block that I cnc machined the compound radius into and attach sand paper to it. Nothing fancy and you have to use short strokes in order to keep the radius somewhat right. I rough off material by tipping the fingerboard with shims on one long side of the fingerboard and sending it though my thickness sander. Move the shim to the other side and repeat. A piece of binding material makes a nice shim.Hope that makes since. A jig like Craigs' would be way better I'm sure. |
Author: | Mattia Valente [ Tue Dec 20, 2005 6:53 am ] |
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[QUOTE=RussellR] Mattia I have the radiusing jig and would highly recomend it, it is a great solution and very well made.[/QUOTE] Yeah, but exactly how painful is the international shipping on that (the jig itself is expensive, but if it's even half as good as people say, it's worth it)? Might have to offer radiussing services locally to pay it off, or something :-) |
Author: | RussellR [ Tue Dec 20, 2005 6:55 am ] |
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It was $190 to ship to the UK Air Mail. |
Author: | Brock Poling [ Tue Dec 20, 2005 7:28 am ] |
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[QUOTE=Mattia Valente] [QUOTE=RussellR] Mattia I have the radiusing jig and would highly recomend it, it is a great solution and very well made.[/QUOTE] Yeah, but exactly how painful is the international shipping on that (the jig itself is expensive, but if it's even half as good as people say, it's worth it)? Might have to offer radiussing services locally to pay it off, or something :-)[/QUOTE] Yes, it is really great. Very clever idea, and extremely well made. |
Author: | ctholden [ Tue Dec 20, 2005 9:05 am ] |
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Thanks guys, ![]() Mattia, I sent you a regular e-mail response to your inquiry. My best to all, Craig |
Author: | ggdelazzer [ Tue Dec 20, 2005 9:31 am ] |
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Mattia thanks for you input, I took a ride into ctholden's website and... WOOOOW, how could I miss such an incredible tool? Craig are you still there? Does your tool work with any router? Will my Festool make a good job on your radiusing jig? Thank you - Gg |
Author: | Mattia Valente [ Tue Dec 20, 2005 10:11 am ] |
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[QUOTE=ggdelazzer] Mattia thanks for you input, I took a ride into ctholden's website and... WOOOOW, how could I miss such an incredible tool? Craig are you still there? Does your tool work with any router? Will my Festool make a good job on your radiusing jig? Thank you - Gg[/QUOTE] It does look pretty great, doesn't it? And I would think your Festool would work perfectly (lucky git ;-) Mattia |
Author: | RussellR [ Tue Dec 20, 2005 11:59 am ] |
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Craig states that the jig was described as needing a 6" base, I just ran a cheap router on it which I leave atached as side to side runout is not at issue as you overlap your passes. |
Author: | RussellR [ Tue Dec 20, 2005 12:11 pm ] |
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For any of my european friend if you want me to mill a board for you so you can see the results please contact me. Russ |
Author: | ctholden [ Tue Dec 20, 2005 1:18 pm ] |
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Gg- Like Russell said, as long as your router has a 6" base, you're good. Russell- Wanna be my European sales guy? ![]() ![]() Thanks for your kind remarks (I say that in anger...am I using that phrase correctly? ![]() Craig |
Author: | Mattia Valente [ Tue Dec 20, 2005 8:14 pm ] |
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[QUOTE=RussellR] For any of my european friend if you want me to mill a board for you so you can see the results please contact me. Russ[/QUOTE] I may just take you up on that! (and I was needin' a radiussin' anyway...) |
Author: | ggdelazzer [ Tue Dec 20, 2005 9:37 pm ] |
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[QUOTE=RussellR] For any of my european friend if you want me to mill a board for you so you can see the results please contact me. Russ[/QUOTE] Russ thank you so much for your kindness; we are a few fellows here thinking upon one of Craig jigs to have in common. The price divided in 3 parts is not so high and guess it could be steaming in my garage quite soon... ![]() Thank you and keep in touch Luigi |
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