I have the delta and am not pleased with it. The white wheel works well and I use it but the honing wheel never worked right for me.(could be me)(probably IS me). I do my honing on sandpaper and/or a credit card diamond plate. Both work well.
Ron
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| Author: | John Elshaw [ Wed Dec 28, 2005 1:08 pm ] |
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Okay, I know the Tormek is about the best sharpener out there, but what are some of the other good alternatives? I was looking at the Delta 23-710 system which is only $149 compared to the $399 for Tormek. Also, Delta has a new support bracket that will allow use of tormek accesories. Do any of you use the Delta, and are there any other systems out there I should consider? I like the Tormek, but as a hobby builder I'm not sure it's worth it for me. Thanks! John |
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| Author: | Sylvan [ Wed Dec 28, 2005 1:56 pm ] |
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First off, I do not agree that the Tormek is the best sharpening system out there. I owned one for several years and it worked great UNTIL I saw Lee Valley's system. No comparison at all. Lee Valley's system is much easier to use and sharpens much better. I sold the Tormek and bought, you guessed it, Lee Valley's system. I would never go back. Check their website, their's is cheaper and much better. |
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| Author: | old man [ Wed Dec 28, 2005 2:04 pm ] |
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I have the delta and am not pleased with it. The white wheel works well and I use it but the honing wheel never worked right for me.(could be me)(probably IS me). I do my honing on sandpaper and/or a credit card diamond plate. Both work well. Ron
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| Author: | Kelby [ Wed Dec 28, 2005 4:10 pm ] |
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John, The latest issue of Fine Woodworking magazine reviews sharpening systems; consider picking it up. It gives the Lee Valley system the best marks. I have the Tormek, and I like it. It has pros and cons compared to the Lee Valley system. There are a lot of available jigs for the Tormek that allow you to sharpen everything under the sun perfectly --- curved turning tools, scissors, knifes, planer and jointer blades, etc. I think the advantage of the Lee Valley system is that it allows you to put a flat bevel on your blades, which some purists think is important. You can't go wrong with either system. Also consider a good scary sharp system --- very effective, and you can't beat the price! |
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| Author: | Shane Neifer [ Wed Dec 28, 2005 5:40 pm ] |
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I keep it simple. Always keep your chisels and blades sharp, then all they need is a good honing every once in a while. If I scr%$ed up an dropped a chisel or otherwise knicked it, I head for the belt sander and then back to my Lee Valley 1000, 4000 and 8000 waterstones. They are razor sharp! Now I still need to figure out a good system for my curved lathe and carving chisels  .
Shane |
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| Author: | Mark Tripp [ Thu Dec 29, 2005 1:12 am ] |
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I'm like Shane, but I don't use stones anymore except for a coarse diamond stone for initial edges and removing nicks. I started using the "Scary Sharp" system when I was building bamboo fly-rods. A 1/2 in. thick glass plate with 200, 400, 800, 1200, and 1500 wet/dry papers attatched with spray adhesive. I use the new Veritas honing guide from Lee Valley and all my chisels and plane blades are like mirrors! When they need a touch up, I just redo the micro-bevel on the 1200 and 1500 - takes but a moment per blade. The only drawback is I can't do jointer blades, but I have a guy that shapens them for $12 bucks so that's no big deal. Like Shane, I still need to figure out a good system for carving gouges. Simple is good! -Mark |
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| Author: | Colin S [ Thu Dec 29, 2005 1:19 am ] |
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Another vote for the Scary sharp system, wet & dry on plate glass, I then finish up on a 6000 wetstone and strop. I use a Stanley guide. Colin |
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| Author: | Dave Anderson [ Thu Dec 29, 2005 7:21 am ] |
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The scary sharp system sounds good and definately cheaper than buying the Tormek or Lee Valley. I'm tired of my oily old stones, I'm switchin'.........thanks guys |
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| Author: | Ron Priest [ Thu Dec 29, 2005 7:47 am ] |
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I have been using Lee Valley abasive papers for sharpening my chisels and planes and I find they work great. I use 1/4" plate glass and don't even bother with the PSA backed paper anymore. They sell three types of paper for sharpening, one cuts quick, next finely sharpens and takes out the scratches left by the previous paper. The last one polishes to chrome like finish. I haven't found the need to strop. It is inexpensive and does a good job. Also needs no maintenance. These papers can be used to level and polish frets. Or even for finishing. Very good product. |
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| Author: | John How [ Thu Dec 29, 2005 7:52 am ] |
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Sylvan Which system at Lee Valley are you referring to. I see several, could it be this one |
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| Author: | Sylvan [ Thu Dec 29, 2005 8:18 am ] |
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John - You got it. The Veritas® Mk.II Power Sharpening System. Best tool I ever bought. Chisels are always razor sharp with very little work! |
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| Author: | jfrench [ Thu Dec 29, 2005 11:24 am ] |
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Once upon a time I was sick of my various sharpening stones, so I headed off to the local Mega-lo-mart and purchased some plate glass. I gathered together all my sand paper and got ready to try the scary sharp method. Often the simple answer defies, and then sticks its ugly head out like a middle finger. "What a waste of time" I thought to myself as I realized I was setting down the piece of glass I bought onto a glass table. .. I like the scary sharp method. But that Lee Valley setup Sylvan mentioned looks like it needs to be the only thing on my birthday list! |
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| Author: | Miketobey [ Thu Dec 29, 2005 3:25 pm ] |
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Sharpening is such an individual thing. For 50 years I have sharpened all kinds of hunting knives freehand on oilstones. For the last 15 or so years I have maintained the edges with a good diamond"steel." When I started into the wood preparation for my guitar projects I tuned up some old Stanleys of my Dad's and bought a Veritas jig. Actually pretty nice. Still used oilstones. I got the Veritas Mk. II and it was even better. Bought a bunch more planes and Dmt Duo hone plates. They were nice too- no messy oil residue. Then, I got the bug and have now tried Norton waterstones and I really like them. I came upon the Tools For Working Wood site and modified my freehand style per their tutorial. I use a Norton extra coarse diamond plate for bevel setting and the just go 1000-4000-8000 and get great results even on A2. Lately, I have only used my jigs for repair of nicks or restoration of bevel on used edges. The down side is that I think chisels are too hard on waterstones,so I kind of have two deals going at once. I was just looking at power honing/grinding the last couple days and based on having done a lot of business with Lee Valley, and looking at Tormek ,Sheppach, Delta ,if I make the move I would have great confidence in LV. Those people really think things through and only break with tradition when it works better. I am glad to find that others on this site share some of my enthusiasm for their wares.(and that a few here still like to use hand planes)dang, I love good tools,using and maintaining-they produce such tactile instant gratification-and I got a couple of LN's for Christmas AND a loving visit from my daughter and her husband. |
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| Author: | Arnt Rian [ Thu Dec 29, 2005 10:00 pm ] |
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I use a stationary belt sander to set the initial bevels on new acquisitions (mostly flea market plane irons and chisels) or to remove bad nicks. I then mount the iron in my Stanley holder and use coarse, medium and fine diamond stones in quick succession before I go to the Japanese water stones for that mirror surface. I go back to the water stones whenever I feel the tool needs it for a quick hone. I have this set up ready at all times when I use edge tools. I like it better than the water grinder (similar to Tormek) that I have, oil stones or the "scary sharp" method, all of which are messier. I guess the most important is that you find a system you like and stick with it; after a while the procedure becomes second nature and you will always have sharp tools. |
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