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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 8:27 am 
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Koa
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Location: Madison, WI
How thick are the steel slats used in the bending machines?

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 8:57 am 
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Old Growth Brazilian
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I think my spring steel are .027? be sure to use either spring steel or Stainless. Spring steel may stain some wood if it comes in contact during heating but returns to flat as Stainless will hold a bit of the bent shape afterward.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 11:04 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
First name: Anthony
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I use 24 gauge stainless slats (0.0239").


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 11:07 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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For spring steel I use .015 Here's a little tip on the spring steel. Spray them with Black Hi-Temp paint available at most paint and hardware stores for rejuvinating your gas or charcoal grill. No more rust or stains.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 11:42 am 
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Contributing Member
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Location: Abbotsford, BC Canada
That's a good idea Super Zoot. I'll go do that. Thanks Super Zoot Rod True38744.8212152778

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 11:43 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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I use that paint on the back of the bottom slat to absorb more heat...makes a huge difference.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 11:47 am 
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So double duty for the paint. I like it.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 3:57 pm 
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Koa
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   Thickness of the slats is .015. You want to use either tempered stainless or spring steel. Alum is not strong enough to support the wood and press it to keep it from warping.
   I have them in stock $40 a pair plus ship
Thanks
john hall
Blues Creek Guitars


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 4:01 pm 
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Koa
Koa

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Location: Madison, WI
Wow. You guys always come through. Thanks much. John, I may just do that sooner than later.

Thanks

-j.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 5:07 pm 
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Koa
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I used a roll of 6" roof flashing. Just cut to length. It's .015 thick and was about $16 for a 25' roll.

Someone once gave me a hard time saying it wasn't really spring steel. Well maybe, maybe not, but it has always returned to flat. In fact I store bent sides between two slats of this stuff then clamped to my side bender forms until ready to use. Again, always comes back to flat.

The only drawback? Sharp edges.RCoates38745.0489930556


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 28, 2006 4:55 am 
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Koa
Koa

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    That is not steel but aluminium. Not the best stuff. If you are happy fine. I used to use that till I ruined a $350 set of flamed koa. It turned green.
   Been using stainless steel ever since.
john hall
blues creek guitars


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 28, 2006 7:00 am 
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Mahogany
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J

When I built mine, I used what they call shim stock on the underside and 0.012" stainless on the outside. Both available at McMaster in 6" wide rolls which made life really simple. Both materials in that thickness exhibit no memory and straighten right back out after bending a side.

Kevin


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 28, 2006 7:12 am 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Wed Sep 28, 2005 2:58 am
Posts: 552
Location: Canada
I have fancy spring steel slats now, but I used hardware store galvanized flashing for several sets & they worked fine(And fit my budget at the time). I always wrap my sides in paper or aluminum foil, so wasn't concerned about staining.
Yeah... they take on a bend at the waist, but it didn't seem like a big deal. I kinda liked the fact that the slats wouldn't try to spring straight when removing a side from the bender.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 28, 2006 4:16 pm 
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Koa
Koa

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[QUOTE=tippie53]     That is not steel but aluminium. Not the best stuff. If you are happy fine. I used to use that till I ruined a $350 set of flamed koa. It turned green.
   Been using stainless steel ever since.
john hall
blues creek guitars[/QUOTE]

Nope, its steel. I just double checked with a magnet. Saying it's steel may be a bit too specific just as saying spring steel may be a bit too specific.

So let me clarify. It is made of something a magnet will stick to and it's stored in a 6" diameter roll. When released from the roll it lays relatively flat. Is it the "best"? Probably not. Does it get the job done? You bet.

Remember. I'm not a professional. I do this at home..



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PostPosted: Sun Jan 29, 2006 1:24 am 
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Koa
Koa

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Posts: 1542
Location: United States
   If you have some steel and it works for you , that is fine. Metals have so many alloys and tempers. You can't imagine all the material I tried on the machine till I found the right material for marketing it.
    I used Alum and I also used the shim stock at first. I happen to be a machinst and we have a vendor that happens to have tempered stainless and that is what I use now. It is tough durable and gives a great result.
    The secret is the thickness for support and bending repeatability. I also say have fun. After all isn't that what having a hobby is all about? You made your jig and I am sure you are very proud of it. I sell mine so they need to be better than good enough.
     Yours
john


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 29, 2006 5:56 am 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Thu Apr 07, 2005 2:38 pm
Posts: 632
Location: United States
First name: R
Last Name: Coates
City: Selma
State: CA
Focus: Build
[QUOTE=tippie53]    If you have some steel and it works for you , that is fine. Metals have so many alloys and tempers. You can't imagine all the material I tried on the machine till I found the right material for marketing it.
    I used Alum and I also used the shim stock at first. I happen to be a machinst and we have a vendor that happens to have tempered stainless and that is what I use now. It is tough durable and gives a great result.
    The secret is the thickness for support and bending repeatability. I also say have fun. After all isn't that what having a hobby is all about? You made your jig and I am sure you are very proud of it. I sell mine so they need to be better than good enough.
     Yours
john [/QUOTE]

You are exactly correct. If I built more than just a few guitars a year... or hoped to, I would look for something more along the lines of the product you offer. Mine is indeed a hobbist's solution.


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