Hello Fellow Forum Members,
A few of you offered condolences to me when I asked how to loosen Gorilla Glue. It was very helpful. However the comment about turning off the lights and putting a banana out didn't work (worth a try though).
Seriuosly....Gorilla Glue is a polyurethane and it is water PROOF! I didn't even try the steam thing. I made a very thin and sharp square ended blade that I held with a pair of needle nosed visegrips. I worked it carefully and quickly around the perimeter of the neck heel. I did the in and out fast so it wouldn't damage the wood.
This blade technique was done after I made an aluminum wrap aroung heat sink that matched the radii of the sides of the neck heel. I used my wife's flat iron (used to straighten curly hair)it has ceramic pads and it even had a reohstat to adjust the temerature. The small aluminum flatbar was easy to bend and it applied even heat while heatsinking to prevent the wood from getting too hot.
Buy the way the flat iron broke when I put a very light clamp on it. I gorilla glued it back together (lol).
This gave me enough heat around the heel to take a razor knife and remove enough glue in order to get my torch knife in the glue so that if I did brown the wood some it would not be visible after I reset the neck.
The dovetail was damaged and I'm making a new one. The existing one doesn't fit right anyway. I have to glue the neck and finger board back together and I was going to use hide glue and I want to use maple dowels to add strength.
IF ANY ONE HAS A BETTER IDEA, I WOULD LOVE TO HEAR IT.
I also have to take the back off and remve the (Gorilla Glued) 2 x 4 brace from the underside of the top and replace. The back wasn't lined up anyway so I need to fix it. The back was also gorilla glued but it should be easy enough (compared to the neck) to get off.
I've included one picture and it ain't pretty.
I WOULD APPRECIATE THE COMMENTS OF THE HIGH LEVEL OF EXPERTS ON THIS SITE IF ANYONE HAS A BETTER IDEA.
As always thank you very much!
