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| fettling a spokeshave http://w-ww.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=4921 |
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| Author: | ecklesweb [ Sun Feb 05, 2006 6:37 am ] |
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Anyone have tips or pointers to tips on fettling a spokeshave? I tried to apply what I know about planes with moderate success. I found an old spokeshave rusting in my dad's tool chest and took it home, sharpened the iron and flattened the sole. One thing I haven't figured out is if the iron should go bevel up or bevel down. Bevel down doesn't seem to work real well, but the iron my have too shallow a bevel ground in it. Bevel up seems to leave an awfully large throat clearance, but maybe that's normal for a spokeshave. I need to find my Hack book and see if he talks about spokeshaves at all. In the meantime, any advice from you guys would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Jay |
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| Author: | Bruce Dickey [ Sun Feb 05, 2006 12:33 pm ] |
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Pics? That might help. |
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| Author: | ecklesweb [ Sun Feb 05, 2006 1:07 pm ] |
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Here are some pics of the tool. In the second pic, you see the bottom of the spokeshave with the iron installed bevel up (away from the wood). I've decided it has to be that way, because when I install the iron bevel down, the bevel is co-planar with the sole and leaves essentially no throat opening, making it an altogether impracticle situation. The only solution I can think of is that if it *should* be bevel down, the bevel angle has to be ground much more acutely. 
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| Author: | Daniel M [ Sun Feb 05, 2006 1:25 pm ] |
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Bevel up is the way mine go. Just won't work the other way. |
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| Author: | Bruce Dickey [ Sun Feb 05, 2006 1:43 pm ] |
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Hmmm, I have one of these. Or a similar tool. Mine is a scraper I believe though. Yep, different animal. I know nothing, to quote Schulz. |
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| Author: | ecklesweb [ Sun Feb 05, 2006 3:29 pm ] |
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I just put the bevel up and tried it out with that big-ole throat opening. Turns out it roughed out the curve of a neck in a big dang hurry. Produces pretty small chips, not curlies like I guess I expected it to. In any case, it worked pretty well for what I needed. Jay |
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| Author: | crazymanmichael [ Mon Feb 06, 2006 12:13 am ] |
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if you want this or any cutting type wood removal tool, whether chisel, plane, spokeshave, etc., to work well you need to lap and polish the back of the blade as well as the beveled edge. otherwise your cutting edge is only half done. |
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| Author: | ecklesweb [ Mon Feb 06, 2006 12:50 am ] |
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[QUOTE=crazymanmichael] if you want this or any cutting type wood removal tool, whether chisel, plane, spokeshave, etc., to work well you need to lap and polish the back of the blade as well as the beveled edge. otherwise your cutting edge is only half done.[/QUOTE] The back actually is lapped (at least the 1/4" towards the cutting edge. The polish on the blade caught a weird reflection in the photo that makes it look like I haven't even touched it. Thank you, though, for the tip. Jay |
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| Author: | Miketobey [ Mon Feb 06, 2006 1:11 am ] |
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You can probably add some shim material behind the blade to close up the throat and refine the cut. Even a piece of veneer glued to the blade will do and can add smoothness to the cut-kind of like an infill plane.By the way, if you are thinking about a new shave, consider the Lee Valley low angle-sole is reversible for flat or curved-will detail the heel nicely. It is really smooth as it cuts.Best regards, |
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| Author: | Bruce Dickey [ Mon Feb 06, 2006 1:51 am ] |
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http://www.jeffgreefwoodworking.com/pnc/TechTools/sharpspoke / |
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