Official Luthiers Forum!

I can't figure out how the Ribbecke type binding jig can compensate for the undulating curves in a domed guitar top and back. It seems like the jig would never be able to cut the ledge anywhere near even throughout the movement. How much variation is to be expected with this jig, is the binding height going to be a 1/16" less in some areas, or more?

Thanks,
Greg

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Gwaltney Guitars

It is supposed to ride on a small shoe created for the router and not the router standard base.

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http://www.dickeyguitars.com

The footprint only registers the minimum amount necessary (takes care of the variable dome), and the springs/carriage take care of vertical movement.

Oh, so the carriage/router is spring loaded so that it is pushed down onto the top/bottom as it makes it's rounds, yes?

Greg

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Gwaltney Guitars

If I were buying a jig, I would call Craig Holden of C.T.Holden Luthiery & Supplies and order what he sells.... it's a really fine jig!



Don Williams38769.6805555556

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"I want to know what kind of pickups Vince Gill uses in his Tele, because if I had those, as good of a player as I am, I'm sure I could make it sound like that.
Only badly."

Some versions of this jig don't have the springs. The router rides up and down as you turn the guitar around under it. The guitar carriage holds the guitar with the sides vertical - you have to adjust the carriage as you mount the guitar so that the sides are, indeed, vertical (or should I say plumb). The jig keeps the router vertical, in line with the sides, so the horizontal depth of cut is consistent (there's a bearing on the bit, too, of course). The small shoe that rides on the edge of the top or back keeps the vertical depth of cut consistent, since it's just indexing off the edge rather than somewhere higher up on the domed surface. Does that all make sense?

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Todd Rose
Ithaca, NY

https://www.dreamingrosesecobnb.com/todds-art-music

https://www.facebook.com/ToddRoseGuitars/

I think Don has given the best advice on this thread!

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Sylvan
http://www.wellsguitars.com

Tip O'The Hat, Sylvan? I gotcha.

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http://www.dickeyguitars.com

I have see one that router road on a 1/2" round nose pin. only about 1/8" area of the pin was in contact with the guitar

    The Ribbecke jig works great and gives results that are as good as any of the other vertical or horizontal units I've seen. I use a variation on the Ribbecke design, but the contact area between the router base and the top or back ofthe guitar are the same.

   It needs to be a minimal contact surface in order to allow the unit the "read" the back as it follows the edged and rises and falls to provide consistent depth of cut. My router base makes contact with the top or back across a fott that is only 3/16" wide and only rides about 1/8" in from the edge at all times. It allows the router bit to cut only to the predertimined depth in from the edge or down from the surface into the sides.

   I've cut the binding ledges on more than 450 guitars with it with consistently good results and minimal trouble. It's just one of those things that needs to be tweaked to your preference as you begin to use it. Every tool, jig or fixture has a learning process connected to it for the user as well as continued development as use continues and ideas come for how to improve it. It's pretty tough to find any tool that does such a difficult task as cutting these ledges with parabolic surfaces with ever changing radii and intersections to deal with without some development and adjustment by the user as it is applied to their work and situation so expect to give yourself the treat of being able to make it your own and to make it work best for you.

Regards,
Kevin Gallagher/Omega Guitars