Official Luthiers Forum!

I have a mahogany back & sides. LMI sent mahogany brace wood, however all my books and from what I've seen here everyone uses spruce. Am I missing somthing? I thought that your braces should match what they're bracing, expansion and contraction considerations. How about side struts? Mahogany ok there? Clinton

PS just bent my first sides today to form,all went well and I'm happy!

I use mahogany for all my back braces... unless it is light wood, then spruce. I agree with the 'use the same wood if possible' theory. I don't have any facts, just the way I like to see it.

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Joe Beaver
Maker of Sawdust

Clinton, I don't think that species-to-species is a critical consideration. Remember that your braces will be at 90 degrees to the grain of the back anyway, so expansion / contraction rates won't be a concern.
Well, let me say this: no more a concern with mahog than with spruce. Those braces won't be getting shorter / longer with the expansion / contraction of the back.

I have been taking a cue from Ervin Somogyi lately, who--as of our last conversation--liked to keep the species the same. And I mean by that the same species of the internal wood. So, if he used mahog (or Spanish cedar) for linings, he would use mahog braces, head block, etc. A visual thing. Everything matched everything else. Presents a cleaner appearance for those who like to peek through the soundhole.

Here's one I'm doing in African Blackwood:




It uses Spanish cedar for the linings, Hond. mahogany for everything else. Oh yes, the seam reinforcement strip is French polished.

Steve

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From Nacogdoches...the oldest town in Texas.

http://www.stephenkinnaird.com

Look very neato in there Steve, that's a great way to look at it too for the appearance.

Steve, that is very clean looking.I like the french polished strip. I noticed the horizontal neck support on your neck block, so your top surface is flat in that area? I like your reversed linings on top also, you make your own? Clinton

Thanks for the kind remarks, all.
Clinton, the block is curved to match the radius of the top. But in a piece that's only 3" wide, it looks flat. And I use a 25' radius on my tops, which isn't as flat as some. And yes, I do make my own linings. I left the "web" thick enough on these so that they had to be bent to fit the sides. But that really makes a stiff construction. I used triangular on the bottom for convention's sake.

Thanks again,
Steve

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From Nacogdoches...the oldest town in Texas.

http://www.stephenkinnaird.com

I'm with Steve, I mostly use spruce, mahogany or spanish cedar and make my choice based on what I think will look nicest and use the same would throughout for liners and back braces.
Here is my African Blackwood
John How38778.0659953704

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Tickle your guitar daily, and it'll tickle you back.

     I prefer spruce. See Mahogany is weaker than spruce. SPruce is also harder and denser and transfer energy more efficiently.
     It is your guitar and I agree that you put in it what you want. You would need about a 60% larger brace for the same strength. ALso over time spruce gets harder.
john hall
blues creek guitars

I always use Mahogany back braces on Mahogany bodied (which is most!) guitars, and Mahogany kerfing on the back as well. Spruce braces and kerfing on tops. And, BRW bridge and fingerboard plus bone nut, saddle and pins. I like similar materials in the same system. Just my quirk.

Colin

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I don't believe in anything, I simply make use of a set of reasonable working hypotheses.

John & Steve,
Question for both of you...that little fretboard extension block on top of your head block, do you radius that in a dish when radiusing the sides, or do you leave this area flat?
Tracy

It gets radiused with the sides but then before the top is attached I flatten that area of the upper bout. Some do and some don't, it all depends on your style of building.

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Tickle your guitar daily, and it'll tickle you back.

Tracy, it's radiused.

John--deja vu! How have you liked working with the A. Blackwood?

Steve

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From Nacogdoches...the oldest town in Texas.

http://www.stephenkinnaird.com

John-so what is the species on your braces,kerfings and side struts? It looks like you tuck your side struts behind the kerfings. Do they go all the way from top to bottom? Very nice interior look. And what is that inlay on your end block? Interesting. Clinton

[QUOTE=Steve Kinnaird]

It uses Spanish cedar for the linings, Hond. mahogany for everything else.
Oh yes, the seam reinforcement strip is French polished.

Steve[/QUOTE]

Steve, youre a bad influence. I'm now seriously considering French
polishing the back graft on my next classical!!

Cheers Martin

Sorry to lead you astray, Martin!
Actually, there is so little new under the sun, and I can't claim to be original in even this small detail. It's one of those things I saw in a book somewhere... some well-respected English luthier was doing it, and I liked the looks of it.
Only choose a piece with a bit more interest than the one I have pictured.

SteveSteve Kinnaird38781.3463773148

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From Nacogdoches...the oldest town in Texas.

http://www.stephenkinnaird.com

my preference is adrirondack spruce bracing or sitka. I like to use the same wood on the sides as the sides are. I try and make them from the excess side material for stability reasons.
   Kerfing is only for a glue surface and I don't see any difference between mahogany or spanish cedar. I know some use spruce on the blocks , I use mahogany.
    John Hall
blues creek gutiars