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| New to the Router Game http://w-ww.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=5605 |
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| Author: | Evan Heisler [ Sun Mar 12, 2006 3:57 pm ] |
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I just bought a PC 7310, and I'm very excited for this new world of possibilities! My first router! But anyway, I'm slightly overwhelmed when shopping for bits, as well as jigs and cutters, yada, yada... So anyway, being new to this, what do you see as being essential? I'm keeping things relatively simple for the satisfaction...and also to keep spending to a minimum. So anything that can pull double duty would be great. I'm planning on using this little gem for binding/purfling routing, rosette and inlay (hopefully, we'll see...), and I'm also considering digging out my own radius dishes. I'm also curious about how deep this thing will be able to cut without bogging down, and if I can rough cut certain templates, etc. Am I asking too much out of it? Any help is much appreciated. |
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| Author: | Andy Zimmerman [ Sun Mar 12, 2006 4:33 pm ] |
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I use a 0.25 down cutting bit for a lot Truss rod channel, CF rods I also use it with template guides to cut my tenon pocket, fretboard extension pocket and endgraft. If you are going to use it for purfling and binding, a good set with bearings is almost a must. Andy |
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| Author: | Andy Zimmerman [ Sun Mar 12, 2006 6:43 pm ] |
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Another common use for a router is when it is mounted to a table. In this configuration I use a flush cutting router bit (Bottom bearing closest to router) I have many lexan templates that I apply with 2 sided tape and then just route out. All of my headstock designs are done this way. Additionally, I have made jigs with for all of my bracing and my fretboards that work with the flush cutting bit..The bearing just follows the jig or template, and you get a perfect cut. |
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| Author: | Serge Poirier [ Sun Mar 12, 2006 11:02 pm ] |
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I have it too, i feel confident about it even if i did not use it yet on binding/purfling channels, it feels so much better than the dremel! |
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| Author: | Mattia Valente [ Mon Mar 13, 2006 12:47 am ] |
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My basics: routing for binding; either with a downcut spiral and a home-made base/follower setup (Arnt's posted his quite a few times; I had something similar on my full-sized Bosh, and it worked, but not well; I have bearing bit sets now). Probably the most useful bit in my arsenal: a good quality template bit. Template made of MDF, plywood, or HDF (y'know laminate wood flooring stuff? It's like MDF but strong, slippery surface, tape tacks well, GREAT for templates), router with template bit, voila. Use for headstock outlines, bridge shape, anything with a template, really. Other than that, truss rods, CF rods, roundovers, lots of stuff on my electrics, rosettes (holes drilled in the base make a nice, cheap circle cutter), A good rule of thumb: never take more than 1/2 of the bit's diameter in depth per pass (although I break this rule when doing, say, saddle slots, but it's a good general rule) to save wear on the bit. You'll figure out what you can and can't route with it as you go along; it depends on the wood, the size of the bit, the bit sharpness, and the cut. |
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| Author: | Evan Heisler [ Mon Mar 13, 2006 12:22 pm ] |
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Thanks for the info guys. Definitely what i needed to get started. Thanks again |
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| Author: | Joe Beaver [ Mon Mar 13, 2006 1:12 pm ] |
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Sounds good. Don't forget to practice. Those little devils will take a lot of wood in a hurry, maybe even some you didn't want it to. But with a firm grip and slow motion you should have no problem. |
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| Author: | Brook Moore [ Mon Mar 13, 2006 1:28 pm ] |
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Keep in mind that the 7310 is pretty light to be carving a radius dish. They are good sturdy trimmers however, and may be OK as long as you don't bog it down. I think the most meat I ever cut with mine was using a 3/8" radius bit, maybe 1/2". It handles that sort of thing fine, but a 1/2" straight bit at much depth in plywood or hardwood is more of a challenge. It will do just fine cutting spruce braces with a pattern bit. It will probably do a fine job of routing a truss rod channel in mahogany, though maybe not in one pass. Just listen to the motor and you will find out pretty quickly about bit diameter, cutting depth, and feed rate. If you have to slow your feed rate down so far that you are burning the wood, then you are running too much bit or depth. |
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| Author: | Todd Rose [ Tue Mar 14, 2006 12:38 pm ] |
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One recommendation I would make is not to skimp on bits - buy high quality. A laminate trimmer like yours is great for all kinds of guitar making jobs. Some tasks, and I would think digging out a radius dish would fall in this category, beg for a bigger router. Always best to use the right tool for the job... Finally, BE CAREFUL! Even a little router can make quick work of maiming body parts. For example, since you often grip a little router around its barrel, you can, with a lapse of attention, let your little finger get down into the area of the bit - watch out! |
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| Author: | Evan Heisler [ Tue Mar 14, 2006 2:47 pm ] |
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Thanks for the sound advice. I do plan on being very careful and going very slow as I get comfortable with things. |
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