Official Luthiers Forum!

I've been looking on the web for this and found nothing: where can I find a
power switch for a tablesaw, the kind that fastens on the fence rail and has a
big red stop sign that can pushed with the hip?

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Laurent Brondel
West Paris, Maine - USA
http://www.laurentbrondel.com/

Laurent, they can be had at many of the industrial supply places (Grainger, McMaster Carr, MCS...). I got one for my thickness sander because I stand to the side when I'm feeding stock in and the power switch is on the far side. I couldn't get to it if I needed to. I got mine at AutomationDirect.com.
Hope that helps.
E-stop switchesPwoolson38799.4697800926

   Here is something you may like. I used to have a foot switch it only works when you are stepping on it
john

Thanks Paul! I ordered two switches at automationdirect.com, I have a
feeling I can always use another one for something.
John, that sounds like an interesting idea, I saw tablesaw setups where
people built a jig with a vertical board that allowed to stop/start the motor
with the knee or the foot.
Well, it's for a '40 Craftsman 9", all cast-iron, only on/off switch is on the
1HP motor so…

_________________
Laurent Brondel
West Paris, Maine - USA
http://www.laurentbrondel.com/

John, is it the same type the old sewing machines have?

   My switch is located that I can kick it on and off.

the sewing machine switches are too light; they wont take the current of a table saw etc. woodworkers supply sells 15 amp rated switches, i think for <$20. yhey aren't "industrial" quality but are ok for light use.

Sorry i did not give more on my thoughts when i asked this, i was more thinking of using the sewing machine pedal switch for my drum sander which has a 1/2 hp motor, anyone thinks it's possible to do this?

the only way to tell is to compare the rated amperage of the switch to the amperage of the motor. that being said i would be surprised if the sewing machine switch is rated high enough to cope with the current draw of a motor that size, unless the sewing machine from wich it came was a very large industrial model.

Thanks Michael!

[QUOTE=ToddStock] Having watch a couple of folks saw off or damage
digits (not fun, but really educational), I'd think seriously about where to put
the panic switch and what you think it might be used for.[/QUOTE]

Same here, with the radial arm saw the tablesaw is probably the *most*
dangerous tool in the shop (save for the jointer maybe?).
I've been using an aluminum Craftsman 10" contractor tablesaw lent to me
for a while (a *real* piece of junk…), with the switch attached low on the
saw's casing. 1 year later and I still fumble with my right hand to shut off the
saw after a cut… Bad, bad design that can so easily lead to accidents…

_________________
Laurent Brondel
West Paris, Maine - USA
http://www.laurentbrondel.com/

By the way Todd, you "safety switch" is a very cool idea!

_________________
Laurent Brondel
West Paris, Maine - USA
http://www.laurentbrondel.com/

[QUOTE=laurent] [QUOTE=ToddStock] Having watch a couple of folks saw off or damage
digits (not fun, but really educational), I'd think seriously about where to put
the panic switch and what you think it might be used for.[/QUOTE]

Same here, with the radial arm saw the tablesaw is probably the *most*
dangerous tool in the shop (save for the jointer maybe?).
I've been using an aluminum Craftsman 10" contractor tablesaw lent to me
for a while (a *real* piece of junk…), with the switch attached low on the
saw's casing. 1 year later and I still fumble with my right hand to shut off the
saw after a cut… Bad, bad design that can so easily lead to accidents…[/QUOTE]

Laurent, i have the same problem with my Mastercraft 10", i wonder if anyone here has some tip on what to do with this other than unscrewing the on/off switch from the inside and clean it, matbe you and me should think about a way to insulate the switch from sawdust.

Laurent, i have the same problem with my Mastercraft 10", i wonder if
anyone here has some tip on what to do with this other than unscrewing the
on/off switch from the inside and clean it, matbe you and me should think
about a way to insulate the switch from sawdust.

Serge, you could just disconnect that switch and replace it with one from
automationdirect.com or other places. Attach the new switch with a flange
under the fence guide, right under the right hand.
As for me I'm restoring an old '50 Craftsman 9" all cast-iron tablesaw, 1HP
motor, 2 belts, 3 cast iron extension wings, cast iron stand, rock solid fence,
250lbs mounted.

_________________
Laurent Brondel
West Paris, Maine - USA
http://www.laurentbrondel.com/

Rockler-safety switch @ $37.99-I just ordered two more. Easy to install and easy to "hip-check" with the large bail type shutoff.I have a couple of "deadman" foot switches for my saw and router table and drillpress. Sometimes I find the contortions necessary to use them put me in more danger. It's most satisfactory on the drillpress. I put one of the Rockler ones(other suppliers sell the same switch) on a friend's table saw and it makes for confidence re: emergency shutoff

Thanks Laurent and Mike, i'll be checking into buying me a better safety switch,

Laurent, you're gonna need some lockable casters for that baby! must be nice to have a big TS like this, i only have a contractor TS and i'm really thinking of buying me one of those big ones! Cool

Mike, i'll be checking into the pedal switches too, makes a lot of sense on scry tools like TS and drum sanders! Thanks!