Official Luthiers Forum!

It comes in various lengths, which would be best for a 20 fret fretboard? I'm thinking the 14 or 16? Would the 18 be to long? I can foresee have to take shorter strokes to keep it on the fretboard?
Your thoughts?

5640   7-1/4" radius $116.95

5641   9-1/2" radius $116.95

5642   10" radius $116.95

5643   12" radius   $116.95

5644   14" radius   $116.95

5645   16" radius   $116.95

5646   20" radius   $116.95

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Lance@LuthiersForum.com

I initially bought a 20". I use Sylvan's crowning jig and it worked GREAT. the board was dead flat and perfectly radiused in just a couple of minutes using this thing.

Since then I have bought the 16" and the 12".

I know they are expensive, but I see these as "investment quality" tools.

I am very pleased with these purchases.

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Brock Poling
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.polingguitars.com

I would think the longer the better ( that sounds dirty). It makes sense that if you want to sand true you need the longest sanding block possible

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Dave Bland

remember...

"If it doesn't play in tune...it's just pretty wood"

Lance, it looks to me like they are all 18" long. What you posted is the fretboard radius (typically 16 for Martin type guitar)

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Don Atwood
Arlington, VA

Lance how did you usurp my post? I started this discussion last week. No big deal, just curious. By the way I'm going to make the jig to make my own radius blocks from wood. I use them too much and want to be able to stick various grits on several different blocks of the same radius so I don't have to replace the paper all the time. I believe John Osthoff has an example of this jig on his site, looks easy enough to build.

[QUOTE=Paul Schulte] Lance how did you usurp my post? I started this discussion last week. No big deal, just curious. By the way I'm going to make the jig to make my own radius blocks from wood. I use them too much and want to be able to stick various grits on several different blocks of the same radius so I don't have to replace the paper all the time. I believe John Osthoff has an example of this jig on his site, looks easy enough to build.[/QUOTE]

Paul, be careful with an 18 inch long wooden sanding block. It might need a truss rod or graphite reinforcement

The StewMac aluminum blocks would be better if they had the same radius on opposite sides. One loaded with sandpaper to sand the radius in the fretboard and the other loaded with sandpaper for fret leveling. Seems to be good for both but would sure be a waste of sandpaper switching back and forth.    

Maybe I ought to see if they'd let me kick the tires on their new products....you know....kind of like here Don A38357.7343634259

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Don Atwood
Arlington, VA

Call me cheap, but I think they are WAY over-priced.
I can see buying a set of 3 or 4 for that price, but one???? No way. Not this guy.
The wood ones are fine, or making your own is even better.

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"I want to know what kind of pickups Vince Gill uses in his Tele, because if I had those, as good of a player as I am, I'm sure I could make it sound like that.
Only badly."

What at StewMac isn't Expensive? I wish they were publicly traded...I'd buy stock instead of all those tools.

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Dave Bland

remember...

"If it doesn't play in tune...it's just pretty wood"

flat tool to sand mine anyway. I shape them on a jig and just need to level and true in a few spots typicaly.

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Tickle your guitar daily, and it'll tickle you back.