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Brass - Need some help!
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Author:  MSpencer [ Sun Apr 09, 2006 1:06 pm ]
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I am working on a guitar for a customer and it is what I will refer to as little wild, but here is what I am working with. The guy likes Red, must be an OU or Arkansas fan or just likes red. We discussed using brass in a number of areas as accents. This is where I need some input.

Here is what we are working with at this time

B&S -Curly Cherry
High Figured Bearclaw Sitka Top or WRC - undecided
Bloodwood - Fingerboard, bridge, headplate
Bindings - Bloodwood & brass
Purflings - Red Abalone & brass on the Top
Heel Cap - Bloodwood & Red Abalone & brass
Back Strip - same combination as above
Brass Pins

I want to use brass accents on the body and headplate. I was also wanting to bind the fingerboard in brass as well. Has anyone done any of this using a metal product?

I have found some supplies that look like they would work, just have never tried this before.   

Any input, suggestions or comments would be appreciated

Thanks

Mike

Author:  Serge Poirier [ Sun Apr 09, 2006 1:57 pm ]
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Some challenge Mike, i can't wait to hear if anyone has ever used brass before, sounds interesting.
Author:  Rick Turner [ Sun Apr 09, 2006 3:28 pm ]
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Yep, I used to use a lot of brass, but silver was more fun for binding and inlay.   Which ever you use, rough up the glue side, clean it well, and superglue the hell out of it.   You might also put pins in like rivets. Both will tarnish, and neither will move with the wood, so delamination is a constant worry.   Only do this with the most stable of woods.   
Author:  Shane Neifer [ Sun Apr 09, 2006 4:43 pm ]
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Rob Bustos of Paragon Guitars (he is on here sometimes but just gogle him and send him an e-mail) uses a lot of silver as well and may be able to give you some more advice on using metal. I like the look of silver, I am on the fence with brass. Keep us posted so that we can see how she evolves. One last thing to consider and watch though is the fine dust from sanding this stuff and that it doesn't get imbedded into the spruce top. I don't know the trick to that but a seal coat of shellac or lacquer on the top before purfling might help you out.

Looking forward to it!

Shane
Author:  crowduck [ Sun Apr 09, 2006 9:16 pm ]
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You might look into brass for the nut & saddle, it's available. I have an 80's Washburn D18-M with brass tuners, nut, saddle, and bridge pins, it's very attractive, and sounds pretty good too.

CrowDuck
Author:  Kim [ Sun Apr 09, 2006 9:29 pm ]
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I have never done this before myself and have no idea how well it would work, but if I was faced with the same dilemma, I would buy some gold leaf and experiment with guilting pre-shaped plastic or wood.

Of course you would need to take into account that once in place, no sanding or scraping would be possible without ruining the guilting but you may be able to stabilise the guilt and sub-straight (purflings) with epoxy to solve that problem.

I think all options will have their issues, but at least gold leaf would not tarnish or oxidise and this may prevent delamination.

The only other option would be paint .

Cheers

Kim
Author:  Brock Poling [ Sun Apr 09, 2006 10:19 pm ]
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as far as a supplier goes, look into Rio Grande, they have a lot of different types of metal in a variety of shapes, sizes and types of wire.

Author:  A Peebels [ Sun Apr 09, 2006 11:02 pm ]
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I used to use brass and silver inlay to accent raised carving on traditional longrifle stocks. The stuff comes in rolls of flat wire. A slot is incised, then the wire is tapped in with glue(sort of like installing frets) then trimmed flush to the wood. It's a pain to do, but looks good when finished.

Al
Author:  csullivan [ Sun Apr 09, 2006 11:28 pm ]
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Mike, you might want to consider using gold instead of brass. Even when
laquered, the brass will tarnish eventually. There's a bunch of places on
the internet that sell square gold wire for the jewellery industry. It's not as
expensive as you might think. One place I had checked out some time
ago is www.wire-sculpture.com. There are others as well. I remember seeing several examples of
gold stringing used by Tom Ribbecke. It's very striking. As far as the
suggestion of also using a brass nut and saddle, you might want to think
about that for a bit. It will have a considerable effect on tone. Some like it,
but it's different enough that the player should probably be involved in
the decision. If you do use brass, give the player the option to change
them out for something more conventional (bone?) if he/she doesn't like
it.
Craig S.Brock Poling38817.3907291667
Author:  Rick Turner [ Mon Apr 10, 2006 2:04 am ]
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I can't think of any downside to making the string nut out of brass other than it's harder to work with than bone.   I made literally hundreds of brass nuts back in my Alembic days.   A brass saddle is another animal, though, and could be too harsh sounding.   It also adds weight to the bridge which may or may not be a good thing.

Gold is good.   It's just pricey.
Author:  MSpencer [ Mon Apr 10, 2006 9:14 am ]
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Thanks guys for all your input and suggestions. I will look into gold. My approach was to be dead on relating to my channel and avoid much leveling or sanding, none if possible. I was hoping that once sealed and finished that the oxidation and tarnishing would be minimized, maybe not. I am sticking with bone on the nut and saddle, just really don't want to go there, I have enough to consider without adding more metal time. I will also run the traps on the gun rifle material mentioned above.

Again thanks, I have now purchased a Digital Camera........I had to brace myself to enter the 21st Century....I can now start posting some work in progress and get Lance my smiley face photo for the OLF.

Mike
Author:  MSpencer [ Mon Apr 10, 2006 9:16 am ]
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Rick

Do you think the woods selected are stable enough for this application? The neck is Mahog.

Mike
Author:  Rick Turner [ Mon Apr 10, 2006 12:51 pm ]
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Sure as long as everything is nice and quartered and well dried.
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