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buffing bridges
http://w-ww.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=6669
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Author:  LanceK [ Sat May 13, 2006 1:22 pm ]
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I usualy sand my briges to 1200, then finish them off with 0000 steel wool. Today I took a bridge to the buffing wheel and really like the buffed out look a lot. What do you do?

Author:  Robbie O'Brien [ Sat May 13, 2006 1:24 pm ]
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sand to 600 and then put it on the buffing wheel with a small amount of polishing compound. You can get it as shiney as you like.

Author:  John Mayes [ Sat May 13, 2006 1:38 pm ]
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I like to go to 800-1000 grit, then put butchers wax on it, then wait 15
minutes or o then take it to the wheel. with very fine menerza.

Author:  David Collins [ Sat May 13, 2006 1:51 pm ]
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On an ebony bridge I rarely sand higher than 180, or 240 at the most.
Then to the course buffing wheel, wipe off the residue and I'd call it
perfect. I generally think of anything higher than 240 as excessive for
wood, and reserve 320 and up of metal or finish.

Author:  tl507362 [ Sat May 13, 2006 2:36 pm ]
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I do what Hesh does, and go all the way to 12000 grit. I also use the micro mesh on saddles and nuts to polish. I love these little pads you can get from Stew Mac. Very handy!
Tracy

Author:  Joe Beaver [ Sat May 13, 2006 4:01 pm ]
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I like to sand to 800 or 1000 then buff. They come out great.

Author:  Mattia Valente [ Sat May 13, 2006 6:31 pm ]
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I sand to 400 or 600, then hit it with some 0000 non-oiled steel wool, and buff with an old T-shirt. Cheaper than micromesh, results are pretty similar. Warm, deep glow.

Author:  Phil Marino [ Sat May 13, 2006 11:44 pm ]
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[QUOTE=Mattia Valente] I sand to 400 or 600, then hit it with some 0000 non-oiled steel wool, and buff with an old T-shirt. Cheaper than micromesh, results are pretty similar. Warm, deep glow.[/QUOTE]
Is this before or after applying the finish? Or, is the bridge left as bare wood, with no finish ?

Phil

Author:  Mattia Valente [ Sun May 14, 2006 12:07 am ]
Post subject: 

[QUOTE=Phil Marino] [QUOTE=Mattia Valente] I sand to 400 or 600, then hit it with some 0000 non-oiled steel wool, and buff with an old T-shirt. Cheaper than micromesh, results are pretty similar. Warm, deep glow.[/QUOTE]
Is this before or after applying the finish? Or, is the bridge left as bare wood, with no finish ?

Phil[/QUOTE]

Bare wood, unfinished. Ends up looking like this:



Not a great picture, but you get the idea.Mattia Valente38851.3810185185

Author:  Dave Anderson [ Sun May 14, 2006 12:23 am ]
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I sand to 600 and polish with minwax. Think I'm going to try those micro mesh pads Hesh and Tracy are talkin' about. Always lookin' for better ways!

Author:  Arnt Rian [ Sun May 14, 2006 12:28 am ]
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Sand to 400, then on to the buffer with medium compound for a nice semi gloss.

Author:  Brock Poling [ Sun May 14, 2006 3:10 am ]
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I have never tried compound (I use micromesh then oil them). Doesn't it get stuck in the pores?


Author:  peterm [ Sun May 14, 2006 4:14 am ]
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I do mine up to 0000 steel wool and the lightly wipe on fingerboard oil! it works great!

Author:  Dave Rector [ Sun May 14, 2006 4:43 am ]
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I sand mine to about 600P or so and then wipe on several coats of shellac. Once that has dried a few days I sand it down with OOOO steel wool and then take it to the buffer.

Author:  Mario [ Sun May 14, 2006 5:02 am ]
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180/220, or whatever's handy(I'm not fussy...), then buff with the StewMac 3169. Takes all of 2-3 minutes. It doesn't have to be complicated to be good.




Author:  Sprockett [ Sun May 14, 2006 8:12 am ]
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I do essentially what Mario does, with the exception that I go to at least 800 when I'm doing ebony because it seems to show the little scratches more. But just a few minutes on the wheel with some Menzerna 3168 (medium) and then 3167 (fine)...

Usually I don't need the fine unless it's a piece of ebony and I want it to shine...

Works great...

-Paul-

Author:  crowduck [ Sun May 14, 2006 9:06 am ]
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[QUOTE=Hesh1956] [QUOTE=tl507362] I do what Hesh does, and go all the way to 12000 grit. I also use the micro mesh on saddles and nuts to polish. I love these little pads you can get from Stew Mac. Very handy!
Tracy[/QUOTE]

I was surprised that they last nearly forever too. My first set is still in great shape - great product![/QUOTE]

I don't know what the grit's are, but a handy substitute for the micromesh pads are the nail buffing boards found by the nail polish and such at the drugstore. If you look around in that aisle, there's other useful items as well.

CrowDuck

Author:  Billy T [ Sun May 14, 2006 12:18 pm ]
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Hesh: That's an intersting photo. Is that an acoustic keyboard?

Author:  Michael Dale Payne [ Mon May 15, 2006 3:04 am ]
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Hesh, start buying them from Micro-Surface direct and save money exspecialy on sheets and ROS pads. Here is the link
Micro-Surfaces

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