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Folks,

I'm just checking to make sure I have my chip breaker set right. The smoothing plane is an old Millers Falls #900 (9" sole). I bought a Hock chip breaker for it, and initially set the breaker about 1/16" (a little less, actually) or so from the edge. I'm guessing that the Hock piece came with some directions, but they're long gone now.

So, what's the general rule? Is about 1/16" or a bit less about right?

Best,

Michael

_________________
Live to Play, Play to Live

Thanks for the reply, Todd.

I finally finished sharpening the iron, and tried it out on the scarf joint of a cedro neck. The scarf had already been glued, so the task was to level the headstock and neck pieces where the headstock veneer will be glued down. It cut cleanly with no tear-out.

I guess I got it set pretty close. I set the CB about 1/32" back from the edge. The mouth opening (non-adjustable) on this plane is 7/32".

Best,

Michael

_________________
Live to Play, Play to Live

I usually set mine about 1/32 back from the edge - but I think the most important thing is the fit to the iron. Held up to a strong light there should be no gaps between the bottom of the chip breaker and the iron.

                   Paul

Let me add that the CB should be as close as possible and still pass the curl thickness you are set for. Unless you are really hogging off wood,1/64 will pass most. The closer you set it the sooner the cut fiber is "snapped-off" avoiding tearout. Helps with chatter in figured wood too, especially when you have such a premium(LN'S are great too) aftermarket CB. The planes I am trying to get done to donate will have stock irons and capirons but both will be flattened and honed to the max.MT

I agree with Miketobey's first sentence exactly, if you are using a chipbreaker.

There are different schools of thought on what the CB actually does: some say it snaps off the "chip" before
tear-out can occur, while others say that the CB pre-loads
the cutting edge, which without it is quite flexible, and
thereby keeps the cutting edge from alternately digging
down and snapping up, which would cause tear-out.

Using planes without chipbreakers (in suitable wood)
can be interesting, as allow you to really feel the
cutting edge/wood interface even more, as well as
leaving imo an unmatched surface, possibly because
of the shaving is not bent. The feeling in use is
like "lifting" the shaving off the surface. Carey

PS On planes where the chip-breaker pressure can be adjusted, a good rule-of-thumb is that the CB is well-set
when you can plane with or against the grain and get
about the same shaving thickness. Obviously, the thinner
the shaving, other things equal, the less likelihood of tearout.

Very good analysis, Todd. I am aware of the debate on the true benefit of the capiron. Stiffening makes just as much sense as the "snapper-offer" theory. LN's-I have 4 1//2 with both frogs,each set up wih its own iron and capiron. A real go to plane for smoothing, and with the std. frog can be set to really move wood. The LN 62 is a true "jack of all trades" with spare pre-beveled irons, and I might actuallyu use it for more stuff than any other;not counting work that calls for a block plane. But, I covet and need planes,so,besides the two already mentioned: LV router,Stanley router, ST(ST= Stanley)#4,LN#3(bronze),ST#3, LV std. and LA blocks,ST605,ST606,ST608, Winchester #6 type,Winchester Block,ST 5 1/4 x2,ECE Primus 24" try plane,Steve Knight #1 pocket block, Hock 1 1/2 Krenov kit,Steve Knight Razee jack on the way,LN 140 R&L,LN curved sole Squirrel tail,ST miniature block, LN #2 bronze coming if I don't die before Woodcraft gets some to ship,ST 9 1/2,ST 220, ST #5 x 3(two are in the prep process for donation auction here),ST Victor #4,ST 4 1/2,ST 10 1/2, ST#45,ST#78,Schneider,3 Ibex( another newer but nice ST #4 for the auction)- This list is from memory. Every woodworker and or luthier or aspiring luthier must have the bulk of the planes or good work cannot be done! Period! That' my story and I'm stickin' to it. Also, I have three wooden body modified Krenov style clones in the works and the Zoot Man was kind enough to root out some nice ebony and rosewood for soles and sides(cheeks)-center sections are red oak and walnut. Irons are Hock. Now, here is what is really odd-I really do grab most of these tools and use them for projects.Building a 3 layer birch ply table top for my618 Atlas. Trimmed the edges with the LN 62-plywood didn't even faze the A2 steel. Used the 78 to dado the bottom of the table top for the aprons that will reinforce the legs and so on.Finish thicknessed my guitar top and back with the LN 4 1/2. Champfered some edges on a little student desk I built with the LV LA block.Shot the joints,back and top on the guitar with ST 5 1/4. Overall, my goal is to use my power tools to really move wood when necessary and refine with hand tools. After all of this, if I could have only one bench plane, it would be the LN 62 with two irons and toothed iron;one block plane,the LV LA,I've used it on end, long, cross and every other kind of grain and a little micro bevel on the iron helps it do many chores.MTMiketobey38875.3206712963

Mike, it sure sounds like you're back on track my frien, keep it up!

Serge

Todd- note the sentence about NEED! "That's my story---"MT