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Does anyone do this...neck design http://w-ww.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=7283 |
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Author: | Andy Zimmerman [ Mon Jun 26, 2006 5:51 am ] |
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I have been thinking about my neck design and I hate the fact that sometime despite a lot of work, there is a change in angle at the 14th fret. (Neck body joint....even with a Woolson jig) Some of this occurs despite what seems like the perfect neck angle. Fretboards can bend a bit etc. String tension??? To this point I have been using a duel tenon joint. (cumpiano tenon with a fretboard tenon to hold the fretboard extension down.....Like John Mayes, Kinnaird etc) I dont like adding the 2nd tenon on the bottom of the fretboard. Conceptually if the neck mahogany extended all the way down you could GUARANTEE a perfectly straight neck. Does anyone do this? It is similar to Taylor, but I am adding carbon fiber all the way down. Also, I dont have shims etc to change neck angle. It seems that adding the heel will be more of a challenge since I just cannot route the angle anymore. The picts below show my attempt. Also pictured is my standard neck block with the baltic birch extension for the fretboard. The tenon will be thinned a bit and the mortice cut out of the birch Any advice???? ![]() ![]() |
Author: | Michael McBroom [ Mon Jun 26, 2006 8:41 am ] |
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I've built only one steel-string acoustic so far, so I'm hardly an expert. But I got that 14-fret "bump" on my guitar too. The bump appeared, however, after I'd tightened up the bolts (I used a bolt on neck with cross dowels) a bit more after the fingerboard had been glued down. A newbie mistake, I suppose. It was suggested to me that the likely culprit was the fingerboard being compressed from snugging the bolts up a bit more, and that one way to alleviate the bump would be to heat up the fingerboard at the upper bout to loosen up the glue (I used Titebond), then reclamp the fb, and that it might straighten out. This helped a little, but the bump was still detectable. I ended up recontouring the frets to deal with it. Best, Michael |
Author: | Pwoolson [ Mon Jun 26, 2006 8:59 am ] |
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Andy, I do it very similar to the way you do. My method is sort of a hybrid of the Mayes system where I actually cut a mortise in the neck blank and insert the fb extension piece. Once glued in and having the fb on it, it's solid as a rock. One issue I forsee with your design as it is, is how are you going to cut the tennon with the extension piece in the way? Looks difficult. |
Author: | Jeff Doty [ Mon Jun 26, 2006 9:43 am ] |
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Paul, Do you have a picture of that? I can't quite get it in my head how you insert the FB in the mortise of the neck blank. Thank you. Jeff |
Author: | Andy Zimmerman [ Mon Jun 26, 2006 10:09 am ] |
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Paul That is why I posted the thread. I knew cutting the tenon would be the problem. I was thinking of cutting on the heel piece before glueing and then just fine tuning from there |
Author: | Dave White [ Mon Jun 26, 2006 6:03 pm ] |
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Andy, Do you mean like this? ![]() ![]() |
Author: | Serge Poirier [ Tue Jun 27, 2006 12:05 am ] |
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Andy and Dave, this is really cool and it makes that task seem easier, i really gotta try this on my next build. Thanks! ![]() |
Author: | Mattia Valente [ Tue Jun 27, 2006 3:33 am ] |
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Haven't done it yet, but a similar joint has been on the drawing board for at least a year and a half now..slightly thinner fingerboard extension though (more around the 1/2" mark) |
Author: | Andy Zimmerman [ Tue Jun 27, 2006 1:24 pm ] |
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EXACTLY DAVE how do you cut the tenon???? with the fretboard extension already cut???? What order Thanks Andy |
Author: | Colin S [ Tue Jun 27, 2006 8:04 pm ] |
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I do the same neck extension on mine. I've stopped using a tenon now, but when I did I just cut the tenon onto the block before gluing it onto the neck shaft. If needed, meaning if I botched the gluing, a little correction with a chisel to get everything lined up. Colin |
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