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PostPosted: Mon Aug 07, 2006 8:37 pm 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Sat Feb 12, 2005 6:20 am
Posts: 1437
First name: Bob
Last Name: Johnson
City: Denver
State: CO.
Zip/Postal Code: 80224
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
1. After you finish thickness work with Wagner and you don't have a thickness sander, how do you evenly sand b/s.

I've seen plans for building thickness sanders and wonder which of the plans you find builds a fine sander and can be built by person with little woodworking experience.
Thanks,


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 07, 2006 11:41 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Sun Dec 25, 2005 6:32 am
Posts: 7774
Location: Canada
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/

Bob, try this link for a home made drum sander, a lot of fine people there will help you out on how to make one easily at low cost!

Serge


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 08, 2006 12:49 am 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Thu Jun 23, 2005 9:36 am
Posts: 381
Location: United States
First name: Wayne
Last Name: Clark
City: Driftwood
State: TX
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
I go after the tool marks and last bit of thickness with a 3 step approach: a hand plane, scraper, and my RO sander. It would certainly be faster with a drum sander, but my results have been good and I'm in no particular hurry.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 08, 2006 1:03 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Wed Jun 22, 2005 10:11 am
Posts: 2761
Location: Tampa Bay
First name: Dave
Last Name: Anderson
City: Clearwater
State: Florida
Zip/Postal Code: 33755
Country: United States
I like using this disc sander from Gilbert Tuners.--gmatonis@earthlink.net

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Anderson Guitars
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 08, 2006 1:07 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Mon Jul 04, 2005 7:13 am
Posts: 3270
Location: United States
Get the GAL book, "Lutherie Tools", from GAL or, I think StewMac has it. It shows plans for several sanders and lots of other goodies.

Ron

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Ron Wisdom

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 08, 2006 2:25 am 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Sun Jun 12, 2005 9:38 am
Posts: 1059
Location: United States
With the very first guitar I built, I used a Wagner to remove most of the thickness of the back and sides (EIR). I planed them to final thickness. I've used a drum sander since guitar #2.

Best,

Michael

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 08, 2006 11:04 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Tue Nov 29, 2005 11:44 am
Posts: 2186
Location: Newark, DE
First name: Jim
Last Name: Kirby
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Ditto on the Gilbert sanding disk. I try to do as much with the Wagner as I can - the sanding disk is slow work.

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Jim Kirby
kirby@udel.edu


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 09, 2006 2:45 am 
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Koa
Koa
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Joined: Sat Jun 24, 2006 12:41 pm
Posts: 975
Location: United States
First name: Tracy
Last Name: Leveque
City: Denver
State: CO
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Bob,
I use the Orbital Sander after the wagner with great results! I think I used 100 grit with it. Then you can use a scraper for the stubborn areas where you have deeper swirl marks. It doesn't have to be perfectly thicknessed. In the old days they didn't have thickness sanders, and those guitars are still around. Just check with a caliper often. Don't go down to final thickness with the wagner, because you will still have about 1/2mm or 1mm to sand/scrape off. Good luck!
Tracy

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 09, 2006 9:22 am 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Sat Feb 11, 2006 10:40 am
Posts: 1286
Location: United States
Bob,

I use the Wagner to thickness all my sides. I run mine through the Wagner a number of times on both sides rather than just take it down to thickness with one pass. As you progress in the layer removal I run everything through twice at the same cut depth. At final I run it through 3 times. My deck is stable and level but I still see and get some cutting on the second pass. Once I am here I join my B&S or tops. After this I move the wood to my table thickness guage and run it through and mark areas of difference. After this I move to the RO Sander and depending upon the wood and how far I need to go start with the appropriate grit sometimes down to 80. I work back and forth checking and marking while continuing to bring my sets down to where I want to be before I start progressing up the ladder of grit. I go to 120, 150,220, and then 320 with my RO. From this point I set my template and make my cuts and then begin hand sanding with a rubber sanding block. I drop back down to 220 and progress up to 400. Then I brace.

Mike
White Oak, Texas


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 09, 2006 10:02 am 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Sat Feb 12, 2005 6:20 am
Posts: 1437
First name: Bob
Last Name: Johnson
City: Denver
State: CO.
Zip/Postal Code: 80224
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
As always, great info. The hand-plane. Every time I've picked up a plane in the past, everything in the house begins to vibrate and the trees....a very sad sight indeed.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 10, 2006 1:03 am 
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Koa
Koa
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Joined: Mon Sep 12, 2005 12:40 am
Posts: 1900
Location: Spokane, Washington
First name: Pat
Last Name: Foster
State: Eastern WA
Focus: Build
I'm still trying to tame this beast.



or actually one just like it. Stanley 12 with Hock blade.

But a thickness sander is in my dreams!

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now known around here as Pat Foster
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Aug 12, 2006 7:04 am 
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Cocobolo
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Joined: Fri Jul 28, 2006 4:06 pm
Posts: 170
Location: United States
Pat
I have the same scraper plane.
Mine does not say stanley.
Mine is a 12 1/2 and has brazil rosewood
handle and sole. Great plane, it is what
I used until I got a drum sander.

Tom

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 14, 2006 7:46 am 
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Old Growth Brazilian
Old Growth Brazilian

Joined: Tue Dec 28, 2004 1:56 am
Posts: 10707
Location: United States
ROS here


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 14, 2006 8:21 am 
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Koa
Koa
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Joined: Mon Sep 12, 2005 12:40 am
Posts: 1900
Location: Spokane, Washington
First name: Pat
Last Name: Foster
State: Eastern WA
Focus: Build
tom,

Yup, I'm afraid that when I get the drum sander done, my #12 will start collecting dust. Such a fine tool and leaves such a nice surface too!

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now known around here as Pat Foster
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http://www.patfosterguitars.com


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 14, 2006 8:28 am 
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Mahogany
Mahogany
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Joined: Tue Mar 29, 2005 8:28 am
Posts: 70
Location: United States
Bob,
We are selling a drill press sander now (new product). Works great! SPSD is the product code.
Chris -LMI


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 14, 2006 8:21 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Thu Jan 06, 2005 7:29 am
Posts: 3840
Location: England
After using the Wagner for thinning plates, I use a drill press sanding disc, as others have said. They are very simple to make and I have a set with different grits on them. I can probably make one in 15 minutes from scrap. The only thing I have ever had to buy is the vecro for the base and of course the sandpaper discs themselves.

I usually just take it through once or twice each side with the sander just kissing the wood to remove any marks from the wagner. However if the wagner is sharp and the table well set up there should be only very faint marks to remove. Final finish is with the ROS and scraper (always finish with the scraper).

By the way I always thin my tops with a hand plane, one of my favourite jobs.



Before fitting the velcro level the bottom of the disc by rotating on sandpaper.



Colin

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