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Fingerboard Oil
http://w-ww.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=8001
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Author:  Dennis Leahy [ Tue Aug 15, 2006 12:23 am ]
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I know many of you do not use any oil at all on your fingerboards. And, I realize that fingerboard oil is (for most woods, and most climates) mostly an aesthetic choice rather than a "wood savior." But, for those of you that do use fingerboard oil, what do you use? I'd be especially interested in hearing about "home made" recipes made from products available at hardware stores, grocery stores, or health food stores, rather than from luthier supply houses.

Realizing that literally using a drop or two on an entire fingerboard, even a 1/4 oz. bottle of oil would be a lifetime supply for someone like me, is there any "essential oil" (like lavender, orange, lemon, or almond) that might be available at a health food store that would work well, either as an ingredient or alone?

I used a tiny bit of mineral oil on my bridge, and buffed it. That worked great for a bridge. Is there any problem with a tiny bit of mineral oil on a fingerboard?

Thanks!

Dennis

Author:  Mark Tripp [ Tue Aug 15, 2006 12:39 am ]
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Dennis:

I like the stewmac stuff.



-Mark

Author:  Pwoolson [ Tue Aug 15, 2006 12:56 am ]
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I use boiled linseed oil from the hardware store.

Author:  Dave-SKG [ Tue Aug 15, 2006 12:57 am ]
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LMi's oil is good if you are looking to use oil. If you want a fretboard treatment...nothing beats Stewmac's stuff. That stuff is great. It's almost like a finish of sorts. realy brings back old dull bridges and even covers a few minor scratches here and there. I treat every repair that comes into my shop ( except maple boards) with it. Everyone loves it...I keep it a secret from customers...

Author:  Dave Anderson [ Tue Aug 15, 2006 1:47 am ]
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I don't have any homemade stuff for you Dennis,but I really like the Stew-Mac also.It's Great

Author:  Daniel M [ Tue Aug 15, 2006 3:02 am ]
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I find that "natural" colour danish oil works great.
I use the Watco brand.
It dries fully in 24 hours leaving a smooth (not slippery) finish.

Author:  Dave Rector [ Tue Aug 15, 2006 3:23 am ]
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I use the Stew Mac oil too. It's great stuff, easy to apply and dries overnight. I try to apply it at the end of the day so I'm not tempted to mess it up fussin around with it.

Author:  CarltonM [ Tue Aug 15, 2006 4:24 am ]
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I also like LMI's Alsyn. As its name suggests, it's a synthetic oil, and it sits on the surface rather than sinking into the wood like many natural oils do; so it doesn't soften the wood or hold onto dirt. It's expensive, but a little goes a long, long way.

Author:  Alain Desforges [ Tue Aug 15, 2006 8:21 am ]
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Another vote for LMI's Alsyn. I've never tried anything else and I don't think I will either. Love it.

Author:  TonyKarol [ Tue Aug 15, 2006 9:57 am ]
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I use Watco danish oils, natural and black walnut if I want to darken a rosewood board or bridge. Cheap, easy to get here in Canada from just about anywhere.

Author:  A Peebels [ Tue Aug 15, 2006 10:26 am ]
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Beer sweat and tobacco smoke.

Al

Author:  SniderMike [ Tue Aug 15, 2006 2:19 pm ]
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I use Hope's Lemon Oil. It's "Solvent-Free! Non-Toxic*, Safer!" Safer than
what, I'm not sure, but I really do like it. No silicones, no waxes. And I
enjoy that there's a warning on the back that says "DO NOT USE ON
WALKING SURFACES... WILL MAKE SLIPPERY" Doesn't sound all that safe
after all.

There's a few hardware stores around Denver that carry it, but it's kinda
hard to find. The Hope Company's phone # is 314-739-7254.

Author:  Rod True [ Tue Aug 15, 2006 2:30 pm ]
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I've used Tung oil on all af mine, it takes a while to cure but is nice and smooth once it's buffed up. Same on the bridge, all ebony to date.

Author:  Evan Gluck [ Tue Aug 15, 2006 2:46 pm ]
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I used lemon oil for years and years until last year this topic came up on this forum, I switched to the Stewmac stuff and never looked back. Its great, I can also use a pastrami sandwich in a pinch
Evan

Author:  DaleH [ Tue Aug 15, 2006 4:30 pm ]
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[QUOTE=Pwoolson] I use boiled linseed oil from the hardware store.[/QUOTE]

Same here

Author:  David Collins [ Tue Aug 15, 2006 4:34 pm ]
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Howard's Feed'n'Wax - available at most hardware and furniture stores. It's a
mixture of beeswax, carnauba wax and orange oil.

Author:  Martin Turner [ Tue Aug 15, 2006 9:58 pm ]
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Lemon oil....forget which brand.

Author:  KenMcKay [ Wed Aug 16, 2006 2:34 am ]
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Pure bees wax, rubbed on with synthetic wool.

Especially nice on violin family FB

Author:  j.Brown [ Thu Aug 17, 2006 4:41 pm ]
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Lemon oil here

Author:  Dennis Leahy [ Fri Aug 18, 2006 4:28 am ]
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Thanks for all the replies!

Dennis

Author:  Addam Stark [ Fri Aug 18, 2006 6:26 am ]
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Rick Turner, Santa Cruz Guitar Co. and I have used Dr. Ducks Ax Wax it's a great clean oil. It can be used for many things.

http://www.ducksdeluxe.com/ddaxwax.html


Author:  dunwell [ Fri Aug 18, 2006 6:41 am ]
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Boiled linseed oil and turpentine in a 50/50 mix for new boards. The turp helps it penetrate a bit but then goes off leaving the linseed oil to harden. Clean up and re-oil I just use lemon oil and the boiled linseed oil straight. I use lemon oil for clean up, followed by the linseed.

Alan D.

Author:  Addam Stark [ Fri Aug 18, 2006 7:20 am ]
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That is a great system. I have done some upright bass necks with that. It is used all the time by bass and cello makers. Very nice feel and it lasts a long time.

Author:  Don A [ Fri Aug 18, 2006 10:15 am ]
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[QUOTE=Evan Gluck] I can also use a pastrami sandwich in a pinch
Evan[/QUOTE]

That just cruel, those poor starving musicians smelling pastrami all day.

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