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I routed binding channels and came out fine, went to cut purfel channels and it made like a wild bull in a china closet. In several areas went extremely wide and not usable top anymore(yes this is the Thomison Murphy's Law Model) I thought when started I normally cut the purfel channels first since not as deep as the binding and then the binding channels. I looked at some notes though and it appears the binding channels are normally done first, then purfel. What I seen was the bearing rode on the top of the binding channel and apparently at some points and I don't know why, they sides at the kerf moved in or pushed in causing the bit to go to far into the top. If lower the bit so rides on sides, then purfel channel is way deep. How do most do this. I am going to put yet again another top on and thinking of doing the purfel channel first. Need input on what others may do or suggestions. By the way, I think the kerfing also needs to be redone, how do that chore? TIA Stan

Stan, I use a router with a bearing on the base and a straight plow bit. Therefore I can do the binding first and perfling last. As the bearing is quite far down from the bit. If I used a bit c/w bearing then I would probably do the perfling first and the binding last. As the probability of the router climbing and the bearing slipping into the binding plow is quite high.
If your bearing did not ride into the binding plow then the possibility is that your top was starved of glue at the kerfing contact point.??? Could that have happened? Your sides should not be that thin, that they would move do to bearing pressure.

If I removed my top and had to redo the kerfing(provided I didn't break it taking the top off) then I would resand down the top edge until the kerfing was flat again.Or at least I would in a perfect situation. It would all depend on how badly scarred the top of the kerfing was. Your guitar side depth should be able to stand being taken down up to 1/8" (I would think). You would have to make allowances for the neck fit and so forth. (Your top ledge will be a bit smaller if you get as far as the slope on your kerfing sides).
Sorry to hear of the frustrating problems that arise out of unforseen problems. But hopefully you can use the top on something else and glad to hear you have nother top to install. Hope new top goes better with no problems. Take care.

Rats, I didn't spell check the word is purfling!! I didn't put the guitar c/w double slash in my message. Where did that come from and why is it going to a selling site? All I entered was the word guitar and not an internet link.   I see Stan's message has a link on "china cabinet" as well. This does not look good! Hey Lance or Brock is this something new or are we being invaded from beyond??

I see the c/w (did you type that in?) but I don't see any links in your message.

Do you still see one.

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Brock Poling
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.polingguitars.com

I see no links..

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Lance@LuthiersForum.com

Its on my home computer. Sorry about that. Must clean up the old girl. Sorry Stan for tainting your train of thought.

Ron, this is just a guess, but I would definitely run a spyware scan on your computer. I started having funky stuff like that happen to me (things in my browser only I could see, etc.) and it turned into a real nightmare.

I ended up losing (and having to reinstall) my entire system...

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Brock Poling
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.polingguitars.com

Heck it is hard to taint something that is mostly tainted anyway. I didn't even notice.

I cut my purfling channels first then the binding channels. The first guitar I did with abalone purfling I had the same problem. I did it with the Stewmac bearing attachment on the dremal router base. I finaly figured out that the base was following the contour of the top at places and the bearing was following the sides at others. This caused the purfling channel to be very inconsistant. I went to a laminate trimer with a domed base and a bit with interchangable guide bearings and have not had that problem again.