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| fixing a loose strap button http://w-ww.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=8300 |
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| Author: | letseatpaste [ Mon Sep 04, 2006 12:25 am ] |
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I've got a '69 P-bass and the upper strap button screw keeps coming loose as the threads in the hole are pretty worn. What's the best way to fix this so that the screw threads will hold solidly? Wood filler? Epoxy or cyano and sawdust? Drill and dowel insert? |
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| Author: | Evan Gluck [ Mon Sep 04, 2006 12:34 am ] |
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Hi Jon, I would always use a dowel and drill out just a hair larger then the original hole. Use a long bit and make sure you are not going to drill through the side. If you do not have a long (aircraft style bit) it may be easier to take the neck off so you get the proper angle. Hope this helps, Evan |
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| Author: | A Peebels [ Mon Sep 04, 2006 12:46 am ] |
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Evan's fix is best, but for a temporary fix just remove the screw, and drop in a sliver of soft wood mabe from a wooden match, or scrap from a top, then replace the screw. Al |
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| Author: | Pwoolson [ Mon Sep 04, 2006 1:03 am ] |
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Maybe I'm crazy but I would lean towards filling it with epoxy and then, when dry, re-inserting the screw. CA is probably too brittle for this application. And,unless epoxy based, wood filler will just crumble away. |
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| Author: | SteveCourtright [ Mon Sep 04, 2006 1:48 am ] |
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Is there any way to adapt a slightly larger or longer screw to the button? Maybe you will have to drill out the strap button to accomodate it. Just thought I would offer another alternative to these already thoughtful ones. |
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| Author: | crazymanmichael [ Mon Sep 04, 2006 1:52 am ] |
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baking soda and ca...wet hole with ca, fill with baking soda. empty out excess soda. rescrew the strap pin. |
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| Author: | JBreault [ Mon Sep 04, 2006 2:13 am ] |
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I've used the toothpick and wood glue method with great success. Just fill the hole with Titebond add a bunch of toothpicks (2 or 3 really), break them off and screw in hte button. Mine's held steady for 12 years now. |
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| Author: | Steve Saville [ Mon Sep 04, 2006 2:38 am ] |
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[QUOTE=JBreault] I've used the toothpick and wood glue method with great success. Just fill the hole with Titebond add a bunch of toothpicks (2 or 3 really), break them off and screw in hte button. Mine's held steady for 12 years now.[/QUOTE] That's what I would do. |
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| Author: | TonyKarol [ Mon Sep 04, 2006 2:39 am ] |
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I second the toothpick and titebond method - works great, been done many a time, no failures, way easy. |
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| Author: | Michael McBroom [ Mon Sep 04, 2006 2:40 am ] |
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I'm with Joe. I've been using the old toothpick routine for years to fix stripped threads in wood. Best, Michael |
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| Author: | ChrisC [ Mon Sep 04, 2006 3:02 am ] |
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I'd advise you to build a new body, and probably a new neck, too. Also, I think your electronics could use an upgrade. Attach your existing strap button to the upgraded unit, without using CA, or dowels or Titebond. Remember to drill the correct-sized pilot hole. This is definitely the best fix. C'mon over, I probably have some wood you can use, and you can leave the defective P-bass here (trace it for templates before you come). Chris 
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| Author: | Evan Gluck [ Mon Sep 04, 2006 3:17 am ] |
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Well, everyone likes the toothpick idea, I just have done so many repairs for people who have done that previously I never trusted it myself. The true fix would be to construct a time machine and travel back in time before it was stripped then..... well you get the idea 
Evan |
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| Author: | A Peebels [ Mon Sep 04, 2006 4:14 am ] |
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I own an old muzzle loading rifle that was made @ 1850. One of the lockscrews was repaired at some time in the past by inserting a sliver into the hole and reinstalling the screw. It's still holding fine after all these years. Al |
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| Author: | Dave Rector [ Mon Sep 04, 2006 9:17 am ] |
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I've used the toothpick/titebond method for years now without any failures that I am aware of. |
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| Author: | letseatpaste [ Mon Sep 04, 2006 12:55 pm ] |
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Thanks for all the advice fellas, except Chris, who better stay away from my bass from now on. :) I'll probably go with the toothpick method, though I think Evan's fix is the best. I can always do that later if I have the neck off sometime. Funny thing, tonight I was putting together a new O'Sullivan desk made of genuine MDF, and I had a little mishap while putting it together and knocked out some chunks of mdf where a thing was supposed to screw in. I drilled it out and used the dowel method with epoxy, will have to see how it works out when the epoxy's cured. |
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