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| Gap between side and tail block http://w-ww.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=8482 |
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| Author: | dubell [ Sat Sep 16, 2006 8:44 am ] |
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I just cut the sides at the tail block for the end graft. Unfortunately, one third of one of the sides has a gap between it and the tail block  . The gap does not continue all of the way to the side of the tail block. I can only slip a razor blade so far before hitting a joint. The gap seems to be almost the size of a nickel.
Before I glue in the end graft, is there anything I can do to remedy this dilemna. Thanks |
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| Author: | peterm [ Sat Sep 16, 2006 8:52 am ] |
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can you route or cut the chanel a little wider and then maybe wedge is some purfling on both sides? |
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| Author: | Alain Lambert [ Sat Sep 16, 2006 9:31 am ] |
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What kind of glue did you use |
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| Author: | TonyKarol [ Sun Sep 17, 2006 3:38 am ] |
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Did you use titebond or equivalent ??? Could try this .. drill two alignment holes on the offending side, located where they would be routed off later from binding channels. Take an old iron, and heat off the side piece from the block. Get the side fitting properly, and reglue, using the alignment holes to get it back where it was. You will likely get some slight shift, but you can reroute the end graft a couple hairs wider, and then you are good to go. |
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| Author: | dubell [ Sun Sep 17, 2006 8:55 am ] |
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Peter - I'm not sure I understand what you are getting at. Alain - Titebond. Tony - I think I see what you are saying. I like the idea. Can you offer some more advise after looking at the pictures? Hesh - Here are some pictures. Thanks to all.  
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| Author: | peterm [ Sun Sep 17, 2006 9:16 am ] |
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Now I see what you mean!! See, a picture is worth a thousand words! 
I would damp the area with some distilled water, place a wet rag on the area and with a household iron try to heat up the side to where it loosens the glue. Scrape clean reaply glue and clamp tight. Its a very small area, so it may be easy to do. I'm sure there are other ways, but this is how I would tackle it. Good luck! |
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| Author: | David R White [ Sun Sep 17, 2006 9:16 am ] |
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Doug, I have done a similar thing, it looks like the side was perhaps a bit cupped and didn't get securely clamped to the tailblock when glued. If that is just the size of a nickel and a little thicker than the knife blade...and it all feels solid, I would just fill that with gap filling CA or epoxy and ignore it. This assumes you can sand it all level without going to thin on the wood, and it looks like you can from the photo. |
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| Author: | Jim Kirby [ Sun Sep 17, 2006 11:34 am ] |
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I'd probably soak it with thin CA rather than a gap filling medium CA, so that it gets into all of the gap. |
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| Author: | Bill Greene [ Sun Sep 17, 2006 11:37 am ] |
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[QUOTE=jtkirby] I'd probably soak it with thin CA rather than a gap filling medium CA, so that it gets into all of the gap.[/QUOTE] Or heat the epoxy for a few minutes under a standard light bulb (which will thin it somewhat) and allow it to flow in. |
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| Author: | Michael Dale Payne [ Mon Sep 18, 2006 1:40 am ] |
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It would be really easy to take a hot seam knife and remove that side from the end block. Clean up the old glue and re glue with adequate clamping to insure a good joint. To me at this stage that is what I would do. |
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| Author: | dubell [ Mon Sep 18, 2006 2:53 am ] |
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I am going to fill the gap with epoxy. Just curious.......For those of you who are recommending taking the side off, how can this be clamped with the top and back already installed? I would love the re-glue the side, but I can't visualize how I can possibly get a good clamping on it. Thanks, Doug |
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| Author: | peterm [ Mon Sep 18, 2006 2:56 am ] |
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Oh, the back and top is already glued on? In that case you may just want to fill it as recomended above! 
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| Author: | Michael Dale Payne [ Mon Sep 18, 2006 3:07 am ] |
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I missed the back and top being on as well |
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| Author: | peterm [ Mon Sep 18, 2006 3:37 am ] |
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[QUOTE=MichaelP] I missed the back and top being on as well[/QUOTE]
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| Author: | LuthierSupplier [ Mon Sep 18, 2006 3:52 am ] |
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Doug, I've had a side that was not glued to the end block very well either. All I did was heat with an iron for about 1-2 minutes until the glue softened, then just clamped. Worked like a charm. You can use a long Quick-grip clamp that goes from the neck block to the tail block and just crank it down. If that doesn't work, then go with epoxy. Make sure you put a damp paper towel over the side first, then put the iron on top of the paper towel. Check often to make sure you don't burn that binding. Good luck! Tracy |
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| Author: | TonyKarol [ Mon Sep 18, 2006 7:44 am ] |
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I didnt see that hte top and back are on .. should have htought of that seeing as I route the wedge area once they are too !!! I woudl simp[ly stuff it with rosewood dust and thin CA. Move on. Its not going to come apart. |
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| Author: | Alain Lambert [ Mon Sep 18, 2006 11:51 am ] |
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Just whick (sp?) some titebond under and lightly clamp. Or do as LuthierSupplier explained. |
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| Author: | Kelby [ Wed Sep 20, 2006 7:02 am ] |
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You can pick up a "glue syringe," which looks like a syringe with a small metal tip but it holds glue. You drill one or more very small holes in the affected area, use the syringe to inject glue into the open joint, then clamp it down. If you place and fill the holes carefully, they are usually small enough not to notice. |
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| Author: | Wayne Clark [ Wed Sep 20, 2006 7:39 am ] |
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Clamping at this point is going to be difficult. Maybe you can drill your hole for the end pin and bolt a clamping caul on both the inside and out side of the box when you get some glue into the gap. |
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| Author: | MSpencer [ Fri Sep 22, 2006 4:31 pm ] |
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WayneC, that is a good idea! I was thinking about the clamping challenge as well. Mike White Oak, Texas |
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| Author: | Serge Poirier [ Fri Sep 22, 2006 4:36 pm ] |
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Thanks from here too Wayne, great tip! 
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