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I've had AC motors go ka-put on me but this is kind of a new one. My Grizzly 48" edge sander has been losing power. To the point where I have to be pretty careful when sanding 1/4" spruce. I'll bog it down if not careful.
So, does a motor "wear out"? Any other thoughts what this might be?
Thanks in advance. P

Is that the one with the whole table around it?? can you stop the whole thing or is it sliding on the belt??

I'm not a motor expert but I have had motors do this before and it's usually a bearing or something like that, does the motor get hot at all??

Or get a voltage test and see if it's getting full power at the source..

Just some ideas.... I've not have any issues with my edge sander (I think it's the same model)...

-Paul-

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-Paul-

Patriot Guitars

I don't know how these things are constructed, but a first guess is motor bearings or whatever the drum spins on. I'm interested in what others think. Good luck, Paul!

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"Building guitars looks hard, but it's actually much harder than it looks." Tom Buck

Paul,
I had the same issue with my Powermatic edge sander.
I blame the crappy quality Taiwanese motors on these things. Mine overheated and fried the wiring. I replaced all the wiring between the motor and the switch, and the power chord itself to a heavier guage wire, and rewired it all to 220v. That seemed to solve the problem. These motors are terribly inefficient at 110v.
Try that...

Don Williams38981.6499305556

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"I want to know what kind of pickups Vince Gill uses in his Tele, because if I had those, as good of a player as I am, I'm sure I could make it sound like that.
Only badly."

Sounds like a bearing problem to me. Try turning it by hand after it has warmed up mabe one of the bearings is trying to seize.

Al

Sounds like loose belts to me. I had the same problem with my double drum sander, Now I have them too tight! The belts stretch a bit, especially from when new. Start there, simple solutions first.

Shane

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Canada

There are no belts with these sanders, they are direct-drive. Seriously folks, these motors are terrible when run at 110. Mine did the exact thing Paul is describing, and it wasn't a bearing, it was just inefficiency. Now mine works great, and has ever since rewiring at 220.

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"I want to know what kind of pickups Vince Gill uses in his Tele, because if I had those, as good of a player as I am, I'm sure I could make it sound like that.
Only badly."

thanks guys for the ideas. The bearings don't seam to be bad, at least not bad enough to make noise.
Don, I see your point on the 220 thing, but I've been running it 110 for 4 years. Sure if I had a neck blank of maple 22" long by 3" tall, I could bog it down pretty easily but not I could probably stop it with my fingers if I wanted to. Doesn't make sense to me.

Paul....there is chance that the run capacitor in the motor is failing. Typically this is located on the side of the motor under a cover plate. Here is a link to a person trying to solve a Grizzly motor problem that shows some nice pics. This may at least give you a few ideas.

http://www.theturnersshop.com/turning/g5979/motorproblem/mot ortrouble1.html

Good Luck!Brad Way38981.964525463

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Brad
Avon, OH

Brad, I am surprised that Griz. motors have the centrifugal switch mounted externally. Even though problems like this are annoying, at least it is easy to fix. Most capacitor start motors have their switch buried inside of one of the endbells and require more disassembly for repair.

Al

run capacitors and start capacitors are not the same thing.

if the start cap was dead the motor would not start, just hum.

and i agree that this sounds as though it could be a run capacitor problem. they are also often found under an extenal metal blister but can sometimes be under a metal end cover.

Thanks guys. I'm thinking run capacitor as well. I just wrote to Grizzly's Tech support with that suggestion so We'll see what they say. I'll keep you slueths posted.