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| Intonation (David Collins?) http://w-ww.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=9019 |
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| Author: | j.Brown [ Thu Oct 26, 2006 8:09 am ] |
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David Collins proposed a way of compensating for intonation on the first 3-4 frets. My question is this: When compensating on the frets, do you lay out the entire FB for typical slotting, then move only the frets mentioned as prescribed in your earlier post?...i.e. .020" 1st, .013" 2nd, .008" 3rd, .005" 4th Thanks. -j. |
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| Author: | j.Brown [ Thu Oct 26, 2006 8:11 am ] |
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As opposed to moving all of the frets... Frets 1-22 for the .020, then frets 2-22 for the .013, then frets 3-22 for the third, etc..... -j. |
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| Author: | j.Brown [ Sun Oct 29, 2006 4:18 pm ] |
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Paging David Collins...... |
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| Author: | David Collins [ Mon Oct 30, 2006 2:05 am ] |
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Sorry, but I just got my computer back last night. Other than a brief stop at the library I have been without a computer since wednesday. I only compensate the first few frets themselves. The reason I don't compensate the nut is because it can add additional compensation where it's not really needed, throwing off the 5-10 range, and the 15th onward. Compensating all the frets would compound this problem. I think I mentioned this before, but this is really somewhat of an idealist method. When you put away the calculators and strobe tuners and sit down and play, I don't know if you would really see a difference from the compensated nut. I should mention that the only time I've seen the problems mentioned above has been when I've tried to push the nut compensation too far. If the nut is compensation is kept below .020"-. 025" and the saddle is brought forward the same I haven't really seen any problems. Recently I've even wanted to try a new approach, but I haven't been building anything lately. Since of course the ideal compensation changes across the strings, I think the ideal approach would be with curved frets. Unfortunatly it would be very impractical to slot or dress. Gibson patented a system of this style a few years ago. The high E really doesn't need to be compensated past the 1st or 2nd fret, and the B not usually past the 2nd or 3rd. I've been thinking to compensate just the first two frets around .013" and .008", then also adding a curved compensated nut. The nut would curve from zero compensation at the high E, to around .010"-. 015" in the center, and back down two about .005" at the bass. Whether you put the compensation in the nut or in the frets, either should be fine as long as done in moderation. If you do move the frets though, just bump the first few. |
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