Ah yes, good 'ol George... Too funny!
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| Easiest way to separate Tite-bonded wood? http://w-ww.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=9075 |
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| Author: | j.Brown [ Mon Oct 30, 2006 4:47 am ] |
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Whats the easiest way to 'reverse' two pieces of titebonded wood? Heat only? Heat with moisture? Chisel? Belt sander? (Geez, I hope the belt sander isn't the answer) Thanks -j. |
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| Author: | Kelby [ Mon Oct 30, 2006 5:03 am ] |
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I need to remove a back brace on a guitar under construction, which I glued with original Titebond (looks like there was too much humidity in the wood to start with, and as it has dried, it has cupped). I was planning to chisel the brace off and make a new one, but if a heat gun will do the job without damaging the back, I'll give it a shot. |
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| Author: | j.Brown [ Mon Oct 30, 2006 5:11 am ] |
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Bracing. Spruce on spruce. Small pieces. -j. |
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| Author: | Alain Desforges [ Mon Oct 30, 2006 5:41 am ] |
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For braces, I would probably just chisel/plane them off. Of course this depends on where they are and the access you have to them (although a 1/2 inch chisel will get you anywhere) I tried heating a brace off once. It didn't go too well... In retrospect, I should of just shaved it off. Hope this help. By the way, I love your signature, J. What were you quoting in your old signature, the one about the sandwich? |
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| Author: | tippie53 [ Mon Oct 30, 2006 5:42 am ] |
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Depending on what I have to remove and where , I use a few different tools. heating I use blankets or a cloths iron. I also have a small iron that is used for model airplanes. Also warm water and dental floss works in very delicate areas. Once the glue hits the failuer temp it comes off easy. I do use an artists knive for getting between the joints. Take your time. You should find this an easy operation john hall |
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| Author: | j.Brown [ Mon Oct 30, 2006 5:48 am ] |
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Access shouldn't be too much of an issue. I'll try some heat and the spatula method first...and chisel as a last option. Maybe I'll have to pick up some floss, too while I'm at it. Thanks for the info, guys. Any other tips are appreciated. Alain, the old sandwich line was George Costanza'a realization that the exact opposite of his M.O. was his key to a successful life. -j. |
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| Author: | Alain Desforges [ Mon Oct 30, 2006 6:26 am ] |
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Ah yes, good 'ol George... Too funny!
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| Author: | Alan Carruth [ Mon Oct 30, 2006 7:33 am ] |
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Titebond lets go at about 140 F. You can heat the parts, or heat a spatula in water and use that. Two or three spats in some really hot water can make it go reasonably fast. Plain water will soften the stuff up eventually, but usually the wood goes to mush first, particularly spruce. Acetic acid will break down aliphatic and PVA glues. Hot vinegar works OK, but if you can get some photographer's stop bath, 28% acetic, it's much faster. You _must_ use a stainless steel knife or spatula with this: the acetic will react with iron in plain steel to form ferric acetate, and will dye the wood black. I've been told that the restoration people at the big museums have a special anathema they recite every day against people that use Titebond or white glue to 'fix' old furniture. It comes right after the curse they use for wood screws.... BTW, the museum people mix their acetic acid with methyl cellulose to form a gel. It holds the stuff in place and keeps it from drying out so fast. This may be what 'De-glue Goo' is: I've never tried it. |
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