Hesh
LMI give Tom Ribbecke Credit for this type
I love it
Works great. You do need a bearing set. So it isn't infinitely adjustable as
the luthiers tool versiom
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| Author: | letseatpaste [ Sun Nov 12, 2006 2:37 pm ] |
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I'm in the exact same predicament as you, so I'll be watching this thread closely. How long is the bit you're using? I notice that your 310 looks almost maxed out on height, and you've still got quite a bit of bit showing. I ran into the same thing, I wasn't confident that the router would hold it's height adjustment. I ended up attaching my 7310 and it worked out better for that. Kind of a bummer, because I bought the 310 to use on this jig. I did finally find a place that had a 2" long 1/4" downcut spiral bit, instead of the usual 2-1/2", so maybe that'll help. |
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| Author: | letseatpaste [ Sun Nov 12, 2006 3:00 pm ] |
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I think it'll work well once we get a holding jig for the guitar nailed down. The other thought I had was making a caul to clamp the jig in a vise, then bringing the guitar to the tool instead of the other way around. I think for now I'd rather have the guitar stationary. You might try the 2" bit, I found mine at Woodcraft, I haven't taken it out of the package yet. It's item # is 822103. link A 1-1/2" or 1-3/4" long bit would be about perfect for the 310. 2-1/2" seems to be the most common size, though, I looked around a lot. If anyone has a good source for shorter bits... |
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| Author: | Andy Zimmerman [ Sun Nov 12, 2006 3:13 pm ] |
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Hesh I have the same tool and I don't use it for the same reason. You need two hands to hold the tool correctly and you have to hold the guitar still and have enough clearance for the tool to go around the guitar. It is about the only luthier specific tool I don' use. I now use a Ribbicke style binding cutter |
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| Author: | letseatpaste [ Sun Nov 12, 2006 3:25 pm ] |
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The videos on the luthiertool site show two different but similar jigs for holding the guitar steady. link |
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| Author: | CarltonM [ Sun Nov 12, 2006 3:30 pm ] |
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I've been contemplating this myself. How about making one of those cradles that are used with various types of binding setups? Make the base heavy--maybe a couple layers of three-quarter ply or MDF--and then make the adjustable "clamps" short enough to clear the hand-held tool. Perhaps line them with rubber or another grip-worthy substance. |
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| Author: | Kim [ Sun Nov 12, 2006 3:48 pm ] |
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How about setting something up that will allow you to utilise your radius dish as a base to support the back/top? Some sort of low frame that fastens to the side of the dish and clamps the git low down on the sides using toggles or wedges. It should not be too hard to work out. At least the surface area on the base of the dish should provide plenty of friction to prevent movement, especially if placed onto a router mat. Cheers Kim |
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| Author: | Andy Zimmerman [ Sun Nov 12, 2006 3:56 pm ] |
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Hesh LMI give Tom Ribbecke Credit for this type I love it Works great. You do need a bearing set. So it isn't infinitely adjustable as the luthiers tool versiom |
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| Author: | SimonF [ Sun Nov 12, 2006 3:57 pm ] |
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As a quick fix - I would recommend using double-sided sticky tape on the complimentary radius dish. It should be more than steady enough to not worry about the body flying off somewhere. However, the ideal thing would be vacuum clamping. LMII sells a really nice clamping fixture that would fit the bill perfectly. And it would be useful for other things as well. But being the frugal person that I am, I would just use tape. -- Simon |
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| Author: | Kim [ Sun Nov 12, 2006 4:05 pm ] |
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[QUOTE=SimonF] As a quick fix - I would recommend using double-sided sticky tape on the complimentary radius dish. -- Simon [/QUOTE] I thought about that too but would be concerned with grain tearout on the top, but then again, if Hesh is going to paint it black he could just fill it with auto dent filling bog 
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| Author: | Andy Zimmerman [ Sun Nov 12, 2006 4:09 pm ] |
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Hesh I just realized thet the holding device I have for the Ribbecke style would hold it well for the Luthiers tool version. You would just have to place it high in the holder and then clamp the holder down to your bench |
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| Author: | Serge Poirier [ Sun Nov 12, 2006 5:11 pm ] |
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Hesh, i use my guitar vise for this and my home made jig that works much like your set up, take a look: 
Cheers |
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| Author: | Rod True [ Sun Nov 12, 2006 5:46 pm ] |
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Hesh, you could use the dish as other have said and just take a thin piece of material, say 1/4" x 2" by 24" long with some cork on of the 2" wide faces. Now use a couple of your cam clamps and clamp the body to the dish with the "clamping caul" on the top. Route the areas you can, than move the clamp. Flip the body onto your top radius dish and do the same. Simple, cheap and easy. |
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| Author: | Rod True [ Sun Nov 12, 2006 6:08 pm ] |
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I can see that I'm too late. Date night got in the way . Don't let my wife read this
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| Author: | LanceK [ Mon Nov 13, 2006 12:21 am ] |
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LMII Vacuum Clamp as already mentioned. Hesh, up to you buddy, but I have one mounted to my work bench, you probably seen it when you were here last. Anytime you want you can shoot over and use it. |
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| Author: | tippie53 [ Mon Nov 13, 2006 12:44 am ] |
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Tom Ribbeke and the Don Williams jigs are superior as the body is held on a platform. I tried alot of different jigs when I started building. The platform styles are the best . The one thing you need to note , not all trim routers use a 90 degree base where they mount ,and you have to adjust for that. The variable bases makes the williams jig difficult to adjust , The ribbeke can me shimmed and clamped to accomodate the variance in base angles john hall |
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| Author: | Sylvan [ Mon Nov 13, 2006 1:30 am ] |
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I used the Ribbeke jig for about 15 years. I think I built the very first one from LMI's plans and actually wrote a very favorable review for LMI about it. However, it requires much more care in the setup and operation than I liked. I was always worried about how this binding job would come out. I just never felt comfortable with pushing the guitar through the jig. In fairness, it always worked well. A year and a half ago I built Don Williams jig from the drawings and photos on his web site. It is a far superior method. I literally can cut the binding slots on a guitar blindfolded (I don't). Within the first month of building the Williams jig I sold my original Ribbecke style binder as it was no longer needed in my shop. Don Williams' implementation of Harry Fleischmann's idea is about as perfect a system as you can get. Absolutely no apprehension in cutting the binding slots on any instrument. I would strongly urge everyone here to stop fooling around with other systems and build or get the one that will last you throughout your guitar building days. |
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| Author: | JWarwick [ Mon Nov 13, 2006 1:49 am ] |
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Hesh, Build a vacuum holder: 
The binding jig you are about to use works--I've used it for the last two years--but I'm not overly thrilled with it. It's time for me to invest the time in building a Williams-style jig, as Sylvan recommends. Best, Jim |
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| Author: | Dave White [ Mon Nov 13, 2006 1:54 am ] |
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Hesh, Russell came up with this neat body holding jig some time back. Come back from your "other job" travels soon Russell - we miss you 
By the way - I agree with Sylvan, the Fleischman-Williams is the dogs doo dahs 
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| Author: | Colin S [ Mon Nov 13, 2006 3:09 am ] |
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Dave, I'm in the middle of making Russell's guitar holder, and a F/W/W binding jig, shamelessly stealing your idea for the second lazy Susan bearing so that the router can rotate. I can then use my DeWalt with the bearing follower and a downcut bit. What size bearing did you use on the router end? I know Axminster has them do you know any other good source? Colin |
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| Author: | Dave White [ Mon Nov 13, 2006 3:43 am ] |
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Colin, I got mine at Isaac Lord which is just down the road. I used their 150LS one shown here. |
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| Author: | Homeboy [ Mon Nov 13, 2006 4:33 am ] |
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I like the idea of clamping the jig and bringing the guitar to the jig. Where I used to work, this is how all of the guitars were cut for binding and such. They used routers with the same sort of setup but it should work just fine with your jig. I don't think you can cut too deep that way just too shallow (not sure about this). Just take a couple of passes and be real deliberate. Just my .02$. (I use the jig that azimmer has pics of and like it a lot, but was tempted by your jig when I saw it ). Good luck, Homeboy |
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