Thanks guys.
Joe, this is how I sort of went about it. After bending the side up to that point I just figured where I wanted my imaginary line to be, the line where the miters would meet.
I marked the angle on top of the rim and at the upper-most point (the very tip) I carried a straight line across the side just to show me where the edge would/should be.
I cut the side about an inch past the 'point' and I free handed the angle/mitre on my benchtop sander using the 4 inch belt on top. I was careful to keep the piece nice and perpendicular and I kept a watchfull eye on the line that runs across the side.
After a few adjustments I got the point to fit tightly.
When I was ready to glue I started by the tail block, then the neck block to the non cutaway side. I glued the horn to the neck block and I finished with the point. I used titebond on the blocks but I used HHG on the point. I had a lot of 'meat' in the joint, actually. I'm sure I had over 1/8. I wanted a glue that didn't need a tonne of clamping pressure. I just held it by hand for what seemed like an eternity and I taped it up with binding tape.
After that, I used the inside of the guitar as a sanding caul to fit a small wedge of mahogany in the tip. I just wrapped a piece of sandpaper inside the guitar holding it tight with one hand and I sanded away. The little wedge fit airtight and I glued that in there using HHG as well.
Jon, I glued the side purfs to the binding beforehand. Only the top purfling gets glued in on it's own. I know this is maybe a long way of doing it, but I find the end result, for me, is worth it. It just seems that no matter how hard I try to machine a perfect 1/16 little channel for the purfling I just can't get it to be, well... perfect.
After I glue on the perfling I just clean up the rest of the channel around it. I'm always careful not to dig in the purfling. That first black line is only like 0.02. I'll use a mix of chisel, Gramil and emery boards to get that cleaned up.
When I glue the rest of the binding on, it there's a crack to be had, at least it will be between the purfling and the binding and not towards the spruce. A little drop of CA (after sealing the top with shellac) takes care of the little crack. The repair is invisible. Spruce slivers on the other hand...
As for the end-graft miters, I followed Cumpiano and Nathelson's advice in Tradition and Technology. PM me if you want further details. I also have a tonne of pics if anyones interested.
Sorry if I was a bit long winded there. Hope this helps.
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That's why I try to get it over and done with as quickly, but safely, as possible... 
