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So I've looked through some back-logged messages about harvesting wood, but none with the specific info I am looking for.

I've got a maple log that seems to have some good grain to it. I want some pieces about 15 inches long by 2 inches thick and about 6 inches wide for mandolin back wood. How do I proceed?

1)Do I let it dry and cut it up in a few years once it has dried out?

2) Do I cut it up now, sticker it, and wait a year or so for it to dry?

3) When and How do I know it is stable?

4) how does kiln drying work? where? how long does it take? what does it cost? How is it different from air drying?

I could be totally wrong here, but whay I would do is plank it 6 months after cutting (having stored it out of direct rain, but in the open air)

sticker it and store it outside but covered.

after another year move it indoors.

after another year resaw into back & sides

I stress again, I could be wrong. Hopefully one of the wood suppliers will come in & tell me how wrong I am!!

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Don't have a lot of time here, so I'll just grab the most important
question....

"Do I cut it up now...? "

Cut the log up ASAP...

Cut it into quartersawn wedges (if you want quartered wood) 2.25" on the
arch, and them criss-cross stack them into a 5' tall pile located in a
heated space....

Remove all bark....!

Put a window fan on top of the stack facing down, so that it blows air
through the stack...
This will help prevent your biggest enemy--fungusing...

Don't forget to leave some 27-30" long pieces for your matching F5 sides
if you're building F models...

Depending on the conditions of your space, you can use the wood in a
couple years or so...

The only thing I'd add here is the important reminder to seal the ends of your log/billets/planks or you will get lots of end checks as the ends dry faster than the rest of the chunk.
There are commercial products available for this, but I've heard some folks just use paint/varnish. Perhaps somebody else can jump in with a suggestion about how to improvise on this.

Cheers
John

My local wood turning store proprietor seals his larger wood blanks with wax.

Lovely zoot too...Sam Price39047.647974537

Maple and similar woods when cut in the warmer parts of the year are full of sap that loves to feed the organisims that cause spaulting. Unless you want spaulted wood, cut it into quartered billets asap then seal the ends, sticker and dry indoors, or at least covered to keep the rain off. Let it dry at least a year longer is better.
Many small sawmills have solar kilns. Mabe a small bribe might get your wood included in one of their runs. If You can locate one of these in your area, You can have useable wood much sooner.

Al

    The best advice I see is spruce's. Being around sawmills as long as I have you do want to saw the log up asap.
   Also get it into a kiln as quick as possible. If you can't find a sawmill with a kiln you will want to sticker it.
   It is best if you can place this indoors. The ends should be sealed with Wax or a coat of paint. This slow the drying at the ends and will help with checking.
   Stikering is just using a 3/4 stick between layers for air flow. If you can store it up in the rafters where the summer heat can work , this will help to dry the wood. IT takes about 1 yr per inch on average. Air flow is most imporant . You can expect maybe an 8 to 10% dring by air at best.
    A kiln can pull it to 6-8%. good luck and if you can keep 70% of the log you did good.
john hall
blues creek guitars

Thanks everyone! That was exactly what I was looking for. I will be looking to cut it up tomorrow.

Does wet wood gunk up saw blades, ie. will the initial cutting be best with a chainsaw, or can I use a bandsaw?

A chainsaw works, but if you can find someone with a woodmizer you will have much less waste.

Al