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I'm going to laminate up some binding stock and wanted some ideas about the best glue to use. I plan to laminate a layer of veneer to my binding stock before I rip out the binding strips.
Since the bindings will likely end up in the side bender, I want a glue that can resist the heat (for a short while, anyway).
The usual choices around my shop are PVA (LeeValley 2002), yellow glue, West Epoxy, and polyurethane. Hide glue (which I also use) seems to be a non-starter in this application since the steam in the bender would make short work of the bond. I've used some other glues in the past (plastic resin aka Weldwood glue, UF, etc) and certainly could buy something new if it were best for the job.

I'd appreciate your suggestions. Thanks.
John

In this application, I can heartily recommend Titebond 3.
Great stuff, and when cured, is also waterproof.

SteveSteve Kinnaird39050.9393402778

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From Nacogdoches...the oldest town in Texas.

http://www.stephenkinnaird.com

This may be totally bush league but I've had very good luck with Titebond molding and trim glue. It is designed to stand up to heat and water, as well as be somewhat flexible. I was able to bend bindings/purfling without any trouble at all--no delamination or even buckling while bending.

Cheers!

John

I was impressed with Titebond 2 when I made my own herringbone purfling. Bent like butter.
Steve, does Titebond 3 offer the same characteristics? I have a gallon of it sitting on the shelf and haven`t tried it out on bindings and purflings yet.
Coe

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Give me 50 cents worth of regular.
Check my oil too, if you don`t mind,,,

I'll have to try Titebond 3. I have always used Weldwood Plastic Resin glue, which is a urea-formaldehyde glue. It works fantastically well, but is getting harder to find and is certainly less convenient than a pre-mixed glue. It works like a champ, though.

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Stay with the happy people.
--Reynolds Large

I have used Titebond II and urethane "gorilla". I think the latter gave me better results. When I ripped the strips and put them in my Fox style bender I got some delamination with titebond . Not so with the urethane. For my $0.02 I go with urethane glue. Spray a little water on one side of the veneer "sandwich", apply thin layer of urethane glue and spread, wrap in wax paper and clamp between 1x4 or 1x6 flat boards for 24 hours. wear latex or vinyl gloves as this is a messy process (in my hands anyway). Have done 2,3 4 layers of veneer maple, walnut, mahogany and birch as purfling only or as laminated binding with 1/4" thick x 36" long maple. I am a big fan of natural wood bindings.
Greg39051.0502777778

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Greg
http://garibaldiinstruments.com/

On my latest I used LMI white to glue on laminations to the binding. They held up really well. However, I bend them dry on a pipe...

HHG would probably take more of a beating than you would suspect... Once cured, it takes a LOT of heat to release that stuff...

Poly would be good too, but I think you need a lot of clamping pressure and that's not easily done with purf and bindings...

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I'd like to be able to prove, just for once, that money wouldn't make me happy...

Hey Coe,

I've never used Titebond II...just went straight from 1 to 3. But if you have a gallon of the stuff just lying around, you could certainly spare a bit for an easy experiment. Let us know how it works for you?

Steve

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From Nacogdoches...the oldest town in Texas.

http://www.stephenkinnaird.com

I just use TB original (I use TB2 when I have some around) .. seems to be more than adequate, even with a light spritz and the heat. Bent in the fox, blanket

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Tony Karol
www.karol-guitars.com
"let my passion .. fulfill yours"

I have used TB2 and am now using 3. I have found it hold up well to the heat of the bending pipe.

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Josh House

Canadian Luthier Supply
http://www.canadianluthiersupply.com
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House Guitars - Custom Built Acoustic Instruments.
http://www.houseguitars.com

I use Original Titebond simply because I want the glue to relax a little. If you are bending two pieces of .050 laminated together, you have essentially made a .1 piece of wood, probably even more stiff if you are using something like poly glue. If you allow the glue to relax a bit you are still making the bend with two seperate pieces as they sort of float on each other. Let them cool in the bender and the glue hardens up again and you have a structurally sound piece again. It's worked like a champ for me on every lam I've ever bent.

Titebond or good old carpenter glue here, it held up well so far.

Thanks, everybody.
It sounds like most of the common glues will work just fine, so I shouldn't have worried.
If I do any experiments, I'll let you know the results in a posting later. I found a can of UF aka plastic resin glue in my stash, so I have lots of possibilities.
John

Here's another alternative. Don't glue them at all. I bend my side purflings at the same time as my bindings but apply them before the binding as a separate step. Takes about 15 extra minutes per purfling, but I've found it makes fitting the mitres on the endgraft so much easier that it's worth the extra time.

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Jimmy Caldwell
http://www.caldwellguitars.com

I did that for the first time just the other night, and liked it too. The purflings were thin and flexible, so I didn't pre-bend them at all.

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Rian Gitar og Mandolin

I do mine like Jimmy.

Greg

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Gwaltney Guitars

Jimmy, Greg-
When you bend the side purfling strips do you tape them up in a sandwich with the binding? I'm just wondering how to handle them- especially with wood purflings, I'm concerned about splitting. (I'm using a bender and heat blanket setup.)
What kind of tape do you use- if any? Getting tape residue removed from veneer is not an easy job sometimes.
Thanks for your help.
John

I tape the strips to be bound edge to edge with masking tape as tight as I can. This works well for me with good bend and very little if any "slip" of the veneer layers.

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Greg
http://garibaldiinstruments.com/