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Top Thickness for Reso http://w-ww.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10104&t=10531 |
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Author: | Kevin Mason [ Wed Jan 24, 2007 5:19 am ] |
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Having built a Beard squareneck, I'm ready to try one from scratch. Rather than use plywood like the Beard kit, I want to use solid wood top, back and sides (I have some walnut saved for this). I have been reading the Drusina instructions, and for his post and baffle construction, he specifies .150 for the top, .110 for the back, and .100 for the sides. Does anyone out there recommend different thicknesses for post and baffle? What if instead I went with a sound well. What would be the recommended thicknesses? |
Author: | Mike Dotson [ Thu Jan 25, 2007 4:50 am ] |
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I like a thick top and prefer laminated so I usually use 1/8" (.125") solid with an 1/8" ply layer under it. I'd say Gary's recommendation is a good one for a solid top. A .110 back is fine too but .100 sides might be tough to bend depending on the wood. I usually go more like .085 before bending, sanding and scraping but have gone .090 on easy to bend woods like Myrtle and Walnut. |
Author: | Kevin Mason [ Thu Jan 25, 2007 10:01 am ] |
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Thanks. Do you prefer a lamenated top totaling 1/4" for structural reasons? Or some other reason? |
Author: | Mike Dotson [ Thu Jan 25, 2007 10:19 am ] |
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Pretty much structural. I just like having a solid foundation to hang the parts on. After cutting all those holes, adding a soundwell or ring, gluing the fingerboard on and screwing a big metal plate to the top I don't think there's much tone to be gotten out of them regardless of materials or thickenss. Add it all up and there's maybe 10 sq inches of 'free' (meaning the area that's not glued to something else) top left. Also I like to use 'f' holes and I've seen solid topped guitars get cracks between the holes. I have one model that has a bunch of floral-style sound holes. On that one I use a thicker solid top but laminate a very thin piece of ply (3/64") to those areas. That way you don't see the 'ply' and it looks like it's one piece. Edit: Sorry on my first post I should have mentioned to make sure you're either slightly under 1/4" total or your binding over 1/4". Otherwise you can end up with a small problem. DAMHIKT |
Author: | Kevin Mason [ Fri Jan 26, 2007 4:48 am ] |
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Does any of this change if you build the guitar as a round neck as opposed to a square neck? |
Author: | Mike Dotson [ Fri Jan 26, 2007 4:58 am ] |
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Nope. The guitar in my avatar is a baritone rond neck and it's top is done just as I've mentioned. |
Author: | LouisianaGrey [ Fri Jan 26, 2007 11:59 pm ] |
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Like Mike I start with slightly under 1/4 inch for the top (because of the bindings - won't make that mistake again). After I've glued the top, cut the soundholes & cone hole and glued the cone ring I add extra ply reinforcement under the top between the neck and the cone ring so it's even thicker for most of its surface. I do the same for biscuit bridge guitars too. If I was doing a soundwell spider bridge I'd probably do the same although I don't normally build that way. One of my customers told me he added a soundwell after a year or so because he wanted a more "traditional" tone and he's pleased with the result, so that's good enough for me! |
Author: | wyodave [ Sat Jan 27, 2007 4:16 am ] |
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Must have been a dumb question I asked. Sorry, didn't mean to hijack the subject. Thought it pertained to the "thickness question". I'll pm my question next time I guess. |
Author: | Mike Dotson [ Sat Jan 27, 2007 11:44 am ] |
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(because of the bindings - won't make that mistake again) You too eh Pete? Boy that was a bad feeling when I realized what I'd done. Ended up OK though, I just did an extra 'rolled' edge on the top. |
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