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| Author: | Shane Neifer [ Wed Dec 02, 2009 10:42 am ] |
| Post subject: | Collet removal |
Hey, So the RDO 20 collets on my Perske spindle do NOT slip...ever! That is great! But the down side is that they are a bugger to loosen. I have to pop them out to even get the bit out. Which means prying the collets out. Anyone else have this issue and if so what is your solution, I don't like prying and tapping on the spindle, it can't be good for the bearings in the long run. By the way, now that I am up and running I can report that this little machine will make a lot of processes much more efficient, accurate and even FUN. I hated routing dishes before, but I have a dish being processed for myself as I write this! Thanks Shane |
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| Author: | Michael Dale Payne [ Wed Dec 02, 2009 10:48 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Collet removal |
Check for micro burrs near the end of the collet. |
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| Author: | npalen [ Wed Dec 02, 2009 4:05 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Collet removal |
Shane--I'm not familiar with the RDO20 collets. Are they not self-releasing? The ER series collets are self-releasing but have to be sure that the collet and nut are assembled correctly prior to assembling to the spindle. Nelson |
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| Author: | arie [ Wed Dec 02, 2009 4:18 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Collet removal |
The RDO collets have a pretty shallow angle to them (spindle side) which is pretty close to a self locking taper. If the nut isn't popping the tool loose without complete disassembly, then you could possibly be torqueing them too tight -max for RD20 is 60 ft/lbs. Try to keep them extra clean and burr free (spindle too) and try a smidgen of anti-seize grease on the collet seat. Also your collet nut might have a e-clip or other collet retention method in it. Check to see that it is in good shape too. |
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| Author: | jaydawg [ Fri Dec 04, 2009 7:24 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Collet removal |
I run an Onsrud 5'x12' overhead gantry machine for a cabinet shop as my day job and used to have problems with collets sticking in my tool holders. What I found ,that worked for me, was every time I changed a collet I would clean it with one of the red 3M scotch brite type pads. Then I would give both the collet and the tool holder a very light coat of a product called "Boeshield T-9". It's rust and corrosion protection as well as a waterproof lubricant. My theory behind this process was that the 3M pad took care of any small burs or particulates on the collet and the Boeshield provided lubricant for the subsequent removal of that collet. Another aspect of Boeshield that I like is it leaves a dry film on the part. Not a sticky or gooey film that can attract dust. |
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| Author: | Shane Neifer [ Fri Dec 04, 2009 12:30 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Collet removal |
Thanks Jay Dawg, and Welcome to the OLF!!! I have a 1/2 in zero flute with a radiused bottom coming to try for making mdf radius dishes. It will be my first experience with these bits. I bought it fairly locally by a manufacturer in Alberta, Taylor tooling, and it was not cheap! So I might look for the Onsrud source if I like it. I will try polishing and lubricating the collest and see if that makes a difference. I like how they hold, but I worry about the bearings on the spindle if I kee having to work these collets out. |
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| Author: | Sheldon Dingwall [ Sat Dec 05, 2009 5:15 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Collet removal |
+ all of the above. I use graphite powder. Old worn out collets will stick like a bugger too. |
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