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Hi folks,

I keep going back on forth on my strategies for machining a Fender style bolt-on neck. It seems like I never do it the same way twice because I just can't settle on a way that really makes the most sense to me. I'm hoping that hearing some strategies from others might get me going in the right direction.

Most recently, I did this:

1. Using a template, I mark two index holes on the back of the neck blank (one at head and one at heel), then bandsaw the rough shape.
2. Blank face up on the table, I machine the outer perimeter and the truss rod slot. Install truss rod.
3. Glue on a rough-cut fingerboard blank.
4. Back on the table, face up, cut fingerboard perimeter, machine index holes in fingerboard (future dot markers).
5. Face down on the table, machine the back carve.
6. Face up again, machine board radius, thin headstock, fret slots, marker holes, etc.

The above works but it's a lot of on-and-off the table. I like a few things about it, particularly that when the fingerboard is glued on, the neck blank is still uncarved, so it's easy to clamp in a flat jig. As opposed to:

1. Using a template, I mark two index holes on the front of the neck blank, then bandsaw the rough shape.
2. Face down on the table, machine perimeter and back carve.
3. Face up on table, machine truss slot. Install rod.
4. Glue fingerboard blank.
5. Back on table face up, cut fingerboard perimeter, radius, thin headstock, fret slots, marker holes.

Fewer steps, but gluing the fingerboard to a carved neck just doesn't sit right with me (though I'm not even sure entirely why). It does negate the ability to use a bearing bit on the router table to flush the fingerboard to the neck, which I do occasionally just because it's quick and easy.

Those are just two methods. I've tried at least a half-dozen others, including things like skipping the bandsawing and indexing off of holes outside of the neck perimeter, etc. But I think those two are my favorite.

Thoughts? Tips? Much appreciated...


-Mike

I think the typical neck machining process would be something like this for a Fender neck:
1) Neck facing up - machine truss rod slot, headstock, tuner holes, locating jig holes (to be used in step 2 and maybe for locating fingerboard) and neck contour
2) Neck facing down - carve the neck, drill pilot holes for the bolts.
3) Machine & inlay your fingerboard
4) I've seen fretting both on and off the neck - both ways work - it's personal preference. Either way, get the fretted fingerboard on the neck, finish sand...and that's it...!

I think the beauty of a Fender neck is that since it doesn't have an angled headstock, you need less setups (or simpler jigs) than you would for a PRS or gibson style headstock.

Hope this helps..
Trev

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That does help Trev, thanks. That's in line with my second example which is where I was leaning.

Mike I have only machined one neck, a Fender style except it was a 3X3, and I have no idea if my method will work for you, but here is what I did.

When creating the model, I left a tab at both ends of the neck. I then clamped the raw blank (clamping in my case can mean a lot of different things) and used the following steps:
1...machined truss rod and drill two or three tiny holes for f/b alignment
2...cut about the profile of the neck, headstock and the two tabs about half depth, then slotted the two tabs with a -1/4" endmill. Probably undersized by .010".
3... take the blank off the cnc, and bandsaw the profile using the cnc profile as a guide, and no need to get it too close either.
4...using two pins that I had already prelocated and installed, I mounted the blank back on the table slot down with the slots in the tabs engaging the two pins. The tabs are also long enough to allow for a bolt and washer to be used for hold down.
5...using the same pins, I now flip the blank over and machine the back of the neck and drill the holes for the tuners
6...I now machine the profile of my fretboard, and place the matching tiny holes for alignment
7...Glue the f/b to the neck with pins
8...Mount neck back on machine using the two pins with f/b up. I now slot for the nut. Next I use a .500" ball nose and machine the radius on the f/b, the sweep at the nut down to the surface of the headstock and then machine the head stock.

By predrilling the tuner holes from the back side before having the headstock to thickness, you have eliminated any chance of drill tear out when coming through the surface of the wood. Since my spindle has too much run out to use a .022" cutter, I used a vgroove bit and just marked my fret slots. Then I cut them by hand and had one of "those" learning experiences!

Hope this helps.

Mike