It sure is and that's how I usually do it as you can see in my older binding youtube. The reason I tried it this way was because I was concerned about getting the binding shaped to the bevel. I was pretty sure I was going to have to do the SuperSoft thing with the ribrest bevel especially since it has a weird compound type of curve thing going on. And I really didn't want to have to worry about the purf getting in the way so I wanted it set and flush just like it was part of the side plus I had to match the 45 of the purf at the taid graft. So I didn't want the purf blocking my view or hindering me in any way if you know what I mean. I realize it was doubble the work and all that but I didn't want any headaches from the purf. As you saw the binding ended up shapping and going on pretty good in the end. I was happy with the outcome and it went pretty smooth. So I think the extra work pay off in the end. I did the other half that way just because I had the time while the binding soaked. And I wanted to place bevel binding first because I could fit the butt joint of the bindings easier if the bevel side was installed first .
Like I said there probably is a faster and better way of doing it and I'm just not there yet. The only reason I posted it was because a few people ask about it. It's still a work in process as a lot of this building stuff is as you probably know from your building experiances. It's still ruff as far as I'm concerned but I learned from it and there are a few good tips in there I think. It should help you all out some and maybe give you some ideas too and save you all some time. Let me know what you come up with too. I've pretty much have read everything that's out there on this. Really not too much and it seems Kevin Ryan is pretty much keeping his technic under hat. Most of the stuff that is out there is with the binding and the bevel being the same wood and not about binding around the bevel. The one thing is to try and design the return of the bevel binding to the top edge as slight or smooth of an angle as you can so that you won't need to use SSII. I also probably went with 3/16" instead of 1/4" high binding. I also think that making a side routing bevel template and a top purf routing template would be nice if you have the time. And to then route the purf top channel and binding channel first and carve the bevel to the channels might be a good way to go too. That might be my next attack at it.
