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I`m in the early process of building a hollowbody and had intended to go with a tailpiece. But here`s the situation I`ve come accross.
When I drew out the side view of the action, I came to the conclusion that I`ll end up with a 7 degree break angle over the saddle when set up for a tailpiece.
I`ve been wallowing in the archives for a few days now and need someone to point me in the right direction.
From the info I`ve gathered, the break angle is optimal at 11 to 12 degrees. Does this apply for acoustics more than electrics?
I`ve skewed, adjusted, and redrawn this a few times and by the time I get things lined up correctly, the bridge will have to be about 1 1/4" tall. Not Good.
I will be mounting twin humbuckers and will be playing plugged in most of the time, so should I not be too concerned about it and just go with the 7 dgree break angle?
I`m still in the early stages of this guitar and can change things up a bit and do away with the tailpiece, opting for a wrap around bridge.
Coe

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Benedetto and others claim that something closer to the same break angle of the headstock sounds best. For me that is a 12-14 degree break angle.

Depending on the bridge (especially if its a floating bridge) , 1.25" tall bridge height is actually pretty darn good. Check StewMac, but many of thier floaters do not go much less than 1" in height. If its a fixed bridge (IE tune0matic on posts) the break angle is much less. A ES335 has very little break angle over the tailpiece...simular for most vintage Les Pauls. Modern ones seem to have a steeper neck angle with a slighly higher break.

For the most part an archtop hollow body should use about a 4-4.5 degree neck angle. That will give you an average height at the bridge of about 1-1.25....depending on fingerboard extention height etc.

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Joe

Thanks for the reply, Joe.
Yes, I do intend to use a fixed bridge, thus the snag in the plan.
I have a couple days off from work, so I`ll work with it some more.
Coe

_________________
Give me 50 cents worth of regular.
Check my oil too, if you don`t mind,,,

Cool. I think your ok at 7degree break with a tuneOmatic for electric. This seems to affect accoustically more than electrically...but will also mess a little with string tention etc.

JD

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Joe

Once you make a decision about the bridge, that, combined with your desired neck angle should dictate the break angle to some extent. Are you leaving a block of wood between the top and the back? Or are you leaving the top to be free floating like an archtop? The break angle determines the amount of force that will be pressing down on the top...if you are building this similar to an archtop then you might want to refer to existing designs such as Benedetto's.

Trev

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Well, I laid out the drawing again, this time with the 4 degree angle and it looks as if things are going to work out after all. The bridge will in fact have to be taller than what I had envisioned. It must have had something to do with the notion that my strings should be about 1/2" above the soundboard.
I wonder this is where I should understand distinguishing acoustic from electric.
Yes, I`ll be using a floating top with the double braces running the length of the body on both top and back. Top radius is 15` and back is 25`.
Coe

_________________
Give me 50 cents worth of regular.
Check my oil too, if you don`t mind,,,