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I picked up a beater '74 Gibson Gospel that needs mucho work, but perfect for my project acoustic. It needs new frets, binding, neck reset, and bridge R&R (long by 5/16"!). I've never done a reset or a fret R&R, but have done a lot of binding work on Telecaster types, and I've removed/replaced a bridge or two on acousitcs. Structurally it checked out fine, the crack near the sound hole was pro-cleated, and is otherwise fit.

I had a wild idea to use a system like the LR Baggs T-Bridge since I plan to build the bridge myself... why not incorporate an adjustable tune-o-matic type piezo while I'm at it?

My question is - has anyone here done the tune-o-matic piezo before - on an acoutic guitar? I've only seen install reference to electric guitars. Whether you have or not, what's your take on this idea? I'm sure I can get placement correct and have already prepared a bridge of a rosewood top piece affixed to a maple bottom which will be shaped and sunken below the soundboard, while the rosewood appears above. I intend to have onboard controls much like the Gibson J-160e. I haven't fully decided whether I'll use string pins or a trapeze tailpiece... hmmmm.

Any feedback will be appreciated.

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I think there is a very strong likelihood that the tune-o-matic bridge will be too tall to get comfortable action once installed and strung. Unlike with a solid-body electric, you won't be able to recess the bridge into the top of the acoustic. The wood will just be way too thin.

Perhaps you could glue a block of some kind of wood to the underside of the body where the bridge will go, but I think that might be overengineering it.

I would just get an L.R. Baggs undersaddle transducer pickup and use a standard acoustic bridge and saddle.

That's my plan, however the maple block is glued to the underside of the rosewood bridge plate. See the pic of the concoction I've come up with - preshaped of course. I'm certain I will have to sink the tune-o-matic a bit below the top of the soundboard, so that the adjustment screws can raise/lower action as necessary. I don't think it'll be overengineering in this case. I prepared to do it and can engineer the solution.

I'm mainly curious if anyone else has used a piezo tune-o-matic on an acoustic with satisfying results. I think it'll be pretty cool sounding plugged and unplugged. And I don't know whether bronze strings can be used, since all the testing I saw for various similar bridges have been with electric guitars - nickel strings, etc.

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I am working on a bridge for the t inserts this afternoon. I will be routing little slots to make my own spacing, but I am working on an electric. You can do the same with yours, just use the inserts in an acoustic bridge. Small drill and file.

Not sure what you hope to accomplish with a big block though, killing the acoustic tone to get a simulated acoustic tone.. The T Bridge is cool, you may consider saving it for another project.

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The block is big now, sure, but it's not shaped yet. I expect the top portion, what you'll see, to be about the same size as stock - much thinner than to 3/8" it is now, and 6"x1.5" with some kind of curved shape and a 'pocket' for the bridge. The maple underneath, which won't be visible, will be shaped around the tune-o-matic on the underside. What's not necessary will of course be shaved away except a thin layer of maple.

So, tell me because I really don't know... how is the simulated acoustic tone from the T-bridge different that the simulated acoustic tone from a UST? Isn't there any interplay with string vibration and acoustic sonic properties like a UST? What I'm going for, ultimately, is an adjustable bridge (to better my chances for spot on intonation) and the opportunity to amplify my dread.

I appreciate the feedback! I wish I was better at conveying what I'm trying to achieve, and how I intend to go about it...

Maybe these pics help to illustrate the bridge design:

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I think it's an interesting idea. The guitar is pretty much beat as it is, so there isn't really much to lose in doing this.

I don't know that it is any different, but it is a different translation of vibration then our ear or a microphone uses, and the reason many acoustic systems blend microphones, the piezos have there own sound. The T bridge is designed to extract acoustic string tones from an electric, and I will guess that is what it does best.

Unique modifications can be fun, and have fun if that is what you want to do.
Rob

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Thanks Rob. I have a back up bridge in case I chicken out!

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These guitars can fetch $800 to $900 in decent shape. I know yours is need of some work so why not experiment on a real piece of junk or better yet practice your Luthier skills restoring this rather then doing some weird experiment?...Mike

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The saddles on the Baggs bridge are very soft. If you have too great of a break angle, especially with heavy acoustic strings, the strings will wear a groove in the saddle and you will break strings like there's no tomorrow. I think you may have trouble getting a usable break angle on an acoustic bridge. Other than that, I've found that it's a pretty nice sounding bridge though I've never used it on an acoustic. Thing is, though, it's a 10lb solution to a 1lb problem. For that kind of money, you'd be much better off with a system designed for acoustics, IMHO.

Good point.

Weird experiment?

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Yeah, I'm beginning to see the light. I think Shaw ^^^ has a good point that I should try this innovation (T-Bridge on an acoustic) on a true worthless beater. Next I'll be scouring the local Craigslist for something that may fill the bill. This Gospel, although not my favorite Gibson acoustic, nor from my favorite Gibson acoustic era, is worthy of restoration rather than innovation.

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Why would you?

You're adding completely unnecessary mass and complexity where neither is needed, and both are best avoided for optimal tone. I like piezo saddles on electrics as a pseudo-acoustic additional tonal palette, but for an acoustic I see zero advantages to this approach. What you may end up with is one of those monstrosities (in terms of bridge construction) similar to what Eko and Gibson did back in the day on guitars that have less than stellar reputations. In fact, many folks seem to have replaced said bridge types with traditional non-adjustable ones.