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PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2012 8:01 am 
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Walnut
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I recently picked up a 1974 Gibson Gospel that had some goop on the headstock. I suspect some sort of accoutrement was applied some time ago. It was applied on top of the bird that Gibson engraved and stretched from the TRC to just below the Gibson MOP logo.

I tried to scrape the goop away, but to no avail... so I broke out the sand paper. As the crappy Droid pic shows, I'm left with unfinished veneer. My question is this: What can I apply to restore the black to the headstock, minding the MOP logo? I thought about that black leather dye I got from StewMac, then shooting clear lacquer on top of that once dry. But will the MOP absorb the dye?

I'm ascared to try, so I'm seeking advice on that or other known methods to bring black back in this instance.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2012 11:14 am 
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Tidewater wrote:
I recently picked up a 1974 Gibson Gospel that had some goop on the headstock. I suspect some sort of accoutrement was applied some time ago. It was applied on top of the bird that Gibson engraved and stretched from the TRC to just below the Gibson MOP logo.

I tried to scrape the goop away, but to no avail... so I broke out the sand paper. As the crappy Droid pic shows, I'm left with unfinished veneer. My question is this: What can I apply to restore the black to the headstock, minding the MOP logo? I thought about that black leather dye I got from StewMac, then shooting clear lacquer on top of that once dry. But will the MOP absorb the dye?

I'm ascared to try, so I'm seeking advice on that or other known methods to bring black back in this instance.



Theoretically the MOP should not absorb anything, although there could be cracks in it that might. One thing you could try to be on the safe side would be to coat the logo with super glue and scrape around the shape before you stain the headstock. Then sand it smooth before your lacquer.

Anyone else care to chime in? Chris?

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2012 11:52 am 
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Have you tried putting some kind of liquid on top of it to see what it looks like under finish? You could try some water or mineral spirits, it shouldn't hurt it if you wipe it off fairly quick. It looks like from the pic there's still enough black on it that it should be fine under lacquer, I'd say it's just foggy from the sanding. If you are going to re-stain it I'd reccomend sanding it very fine as any scratches on the pearl could take up the stain.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2012 11:56 am 
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Wipe it down with some alcohol. Does it appear to be evenly black when wet? If so it just needs some finish and a buff. I see some areas that were not sanded around the tuner holes and logo that will need some attention before you re-finish. Other than it may be sanded a bit coarse it looks like it just needs re-finished to me.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2012 12:18 pm 
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yeah looking at this on my computer instead of my phone leads me to think that you haven't even sanded through the original finish. I'd echo what Brian said, finish sanding around the tuner holes and logo so that they are an even color to the rest and you should be fine just top coating it. The black should be fully intact at this point.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2012 3:38 pm 
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I have had a similar problem. I used to use black fiber as head plate material and inlay my white MOP logo into it. I use black epoxy to fill the gaps. After sanding, it looks like your picture at the top of the post. After sealing with shellac, the plate still looked a bit gray. I then removed the shellac and sanded to 1500. I applied black leather dye to the entire head plate hoping that the MOP would not be affected but it did darken the pearl just enough to be unacceptable. I then sanded to 1500 again and used a small artist brush to dye around the edges of the pearl and the rest of the plate and sealed again with shellac. IT WORKED!!

Here is a tenor uke head plate that I did this on...

Image

I now use black veneer as head plate material. Ebony plates are too thick for my nut configuration. I just have to be very careful when I level the inlay.

Your head plate will probably be OK to just finish as is but if not...

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2012 8:06 pm 
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Thanks all! I should have mentioned I did have some clear lacquer sprayed before removingin it as the black still appeared grayish. And yes, I should pay attention to the areas that appear darker... especially around the logo, bringing it down to 1500 or finer. The indentions around the peg holes are quite deep... so I may just leave those alone.

I'll study the recommendations here and probably go with the leather dye... gotta work up the nerve first!

Cheers - JR

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2012 4:12 pm 
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Tidewater wrote:
The indentions around the peg holes are quite deep... so I may just leave those alone.



you should at least break the gloss around them with some steel wool or scotchbrite to make sure the new finish gets the best possible bite, otherwise the finish may chip out when you reinstall the tuners.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2012 7:30 pm 
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Update: I used black leather dye (the stuff StewMac sells) to restore the black to the headstock material. I wiped it on, then wiped it off a couple times. It did not penetrate the MOP logo. I tinted the MOP with amber lacquer, however, after the black was restored. Then shot about 8 coats of clear lacquer on top.

A bit more buffing then some wax and I think it'll be fine.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2012 7:50 pm 
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Great job!

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2012 8:06 pm 
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Nice!


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