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I'm involved with the 2011 Build Challenge over on the TDPRI. It's getting down to the wire(11 days left!), and I need some advice. I could do a search on wipe on poly, but I doubt I'd find the answers to this question. Here goes.
I use CA, (superglue) to fill pores in open grained wood . It's fast, easy, works great, and is cheap. I have experienced zero issues with lacquer.
However, I don't have time for lacquer. I had originally intended to do a tru-oil finish on this one, but I can't find tru-oil locally(believe me, I've tried) so would have to order it. I just don't like the odds of recieving it in time to get my finish completed in time. So I think a better option at this time is wipe on poly. I have it here in my hot little hands, ready to go. My question is, does anyone here forsee any difficulty using it over CA?
P.S. : I would also appreciate any tips on applying the wipe on poly. I'm used to spraying finishes. Particularly, how to apply it to top, back and sides. Do I need to apply to top, let cure, apply to sides, let cure, then apply to back? The instructions call for at least 3 hours drying time between coats. If I have to wait 3 hours for the top to dry, 3 for the sides, 3 for the back........seems more time consuming than I initially thought.

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Mike

The only thing nescessary for evil to thrive is for good men to do nothing.

I can't help you with the CA/poly compatibility, but I might have a solution regarding the application to the top, back and side application - use the same technique as you would for spraying. When I oil my guitars, I do the whole body in one go whilst holding the neck (I usually make set-neck guitars). For a bolt-on, just use your bit of scrap screwed into your neck pocket as you would for spraying.

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Custom Handmade Guitars Handcrafted Cornwall England Web Design Helston Cornwall

I bought my tru-oil on Amazon (from OutdoorBunker) and it arrived in 2 days.

http://www.amazon.com/Birchwood-Casey%C ... 427&sr=8-3

I used wipe-on poly on a build, and I was not very happy with it. It didn't want to spread evenly, and it took a lot more coats than I think it should have to make the finish look even.

Hey Mike,
I'm using a wipe on poly calle Arm-R-Seal, by General.
I like some aspects of it, no spraying, I can pretend I'm a big deal like I'm french polishing,
and it looks absolutely beautiful.
It takes forever to build coats though.
I tried putting in on with the git hanging, and had trouble with runs at the fb edge where it is glued on the body.
So, I'm doing the top with it laying down.
Works better.
Sorry I don't have better news.
I didn't use a filler, and maybe maple would build faster,
especially with the ca fill, which I don't think would have compatability issues.
Good luck.

Thanks for all the replies, guys.
Mkcg, thanks. But it would be difficult to hold the guitar by the neck, since I would want to finish the neck at the same time as the body. And I wouldn't want to build up a lot of coats on the body, and then move to trying to coat the neck. Not sure how well that would work.
HaMMerHeD, thanks for the response. I realize the wipe on poly might not be ideal, but I'm under time constraints on this one. Normally I'd chuck all this and shoot nitro...... That said, I think if I'm careful with the application I should be alright.
Alan, thanks. regarding building up of the finish, I'm not trying to get as thick a finish as with nitro. If I could get about 10 or 12 coats on the whole thing in 3-4 days, I'd be happy. i don't baby my guitars, and i'm also accident prone, but I don't do any heavy gigging anymore. It would see service twice on Sundays and on Wednesday nights in church services(plus whatever jamming I'd do at home), so I don't really need a huge amount of protection.

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Mike

The only thing nescessary for evil to thrive is for good men to do nothing.

Mike,

You can get a very nice finish with wipe on poly. As with any other finish it is learning the proper application technique. This is what works for me so give it a try. I get a real nice satin finish this way. I also did one in gloss that turned out quite acceptable.

CA pore filling is fine under a poly finish. For Minwax Wipe-on Poly I use either Zinsser Seal Coat or Minwax Sanding Sealer to seal the wood after pore filling. Once the sealer dries, I de-nib with a 3M 320 grit Sandblaster sanding sponge. You can use #00 steel wool or the equivilent synthetic wool, whatever you prefer. Next, with a clean lint free cloth, apply 3 thin (and I mean thin) coats of the poly with the appropriate dry time between coats. You want enough finish on the applicator to keep it from dragging on the surface but not enough to leave tracks. If you have a drip, your using about three times more material than you should be. Keep the coats thin. Did I mention to keep the coats thin? After the third coat let it sit over night.
The next day, since the coats were thin, you don't have a build up of finish to level. A light sanding with the same medium as after sealing should pull off any nibs and smooth the finish. Time for three more thin coats, wait overnight and another de-nib.
Now you need one final coat (some times two , but usually one), a nice thin even coat with no dust or lint or hair from the cat. Use compressed air and a tack cloth and one of those masking tape lint removers on your applicator rag and on your self. Wait a day and then it's assembly time.

That's it. Real simple. Nice thin durable finish.

Steve

Thanks, Steven. that's the exact info I needed. One other question. Does it need to be buffed out?
Also, Filippo, if you wet sand with 2000, is it necessary to buff?
I plan to start finishing as soon as the weather stops dropping rain on me. Thank you all for your help. Appreciated.

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Mike

The only thing nescessary for evil to thrive is for good men to do nothing.

If you're doing a satin finish then no buffing is required. Fillipo's advice on the 2000 grit with carnuba wax will leave an incredibly smooth finish. No buffing required there either.
If you, for some insane reason, are going to attempt a gloss polyurethane finsh then buffing will be reqired. You'll not be able to complete the gloss finish in time for the deadline at TDPRI.

Steve

Thanks, Steven. I have gloss poly. But that doesn't mean i have to buff it. I'll leave it unbuffed until after the build challenge , and finish it then. I assume the reason i would not be able to complete a gloss finish is either the finish will need more cure time to stand up to buffing, or more coats, or both?

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Mike

The only thing nescessary for evil to thrive is for good men to do nothing.

[quote="Mike BakerI assume the reason i would not be able to complete a gloss finish is either the finish will need more cure time to stand up to buffing, or more coats, or both?[/quote]

Both. You'll need more finish thickness to buff it out so that equals more coats. You need to give it about a week to cure before buffing. I had to level sand mine as I didn't get a real smooth application. Witness lines from partially buffing through the top coat into a previous one are not a problem. If you buff through the finish to the sealer, you're done. You have to strip the entire piece and start over. I would not use this product for a gloss finish again. If I want gloss poly, I use the catalyzed version (automotive clearcoat). You can buff that out after 24 hrs. and it protects from UV rays, rain, snow, road grime and stone chips.

Steve

Thanks, Steven. Filippo, that looks just great to me!

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Mike

The only thing nescessary for evil to thrive is for good men to do nothing.