Official Luthiers Forum! :: View topic - How do you compensate scale length for a angled neck?

This is one of the things I miss about being in Colorado - day hikes in February ...

Filippo

Two comments:

How did you arrive at a 2 1/2 degree angle? I don't know what bridge you will be using, but I have found it very difficult to get sufficient low action using various tune-o-matics if I use an angle less than 3 1/2 degrees.

Also, what software program are you using to draw up your plans?

Thanks,
EWC

This is my first drawing using Solidworks and I am learning as I go. I went with the 2.5 angle because it is similar to a other flattops like a sg which is usually 3 degrees and explorers which are 2.5-3. I plan on using a pigtail wraparound and based on my drawing I actually have to raise the bridge about 13/64" off the body to get around 2/32" to 3/32" space to play with over the 22nd fret. How low of action do you usually shoot for?

Author:	direwolf [ Wed Jan 04, 2012 3:38 pm ]
Post subject:	How do you compensate scale length for a angled neck?
Hello. Does anyone compensate for the added length on an angled neck? I'm using a 2.5 degree angle in the attached drawing.

Author:	Chris Pile [ Wed Jan 04, 2012 5:26 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: How do you compensate scale length for a angled neck?
You are measuring your scale length wrong. The string is your actual scale length.... remember it's a straight line between both points.

Author:	direwolf [ Wed Jan 04, 2012 9:00 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: How do you compensate scale length for a angled neck?
Ok, thank you both for your replies. I think I got a little lost while staring at my computer screen. After taking a hike with the family and getting some fresh air I see how stupid my question was. I'll just move the bridge closer.

Author:	nickton [ Wed Jan 04, 2012 11:38 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: How do you compensate scale length for a angled neck?
we have those in California too.

Author:	direwolf [ Thu Jan 05, 2012 4:44 am ]
Post subject:	Re: How do you compensate scale length for a angled neck?
Filippo Morelli wrote: This is one of the things I miss about being in Colorado - day hikes in February ... Filippo I do take it for granted. It was 65 and sunny today. I just stick my head outside and test the waters. Alot different than when I grew up in the midwest where the lakes kept it in the twenties and a walk outside meant frozen snot.

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Author:	EWC&Son [ Thu Jan 05, 2012 9:41 am ]
Post subject:	Re: How do you compensate scale length for a angled neck?
Two comments: How did you arrive at a 2 1/2 degree angle? I don't know what bridge you will be using, but I have found it very difficult to get sufficient low action using various tune-o-matics if I use an angle less than 3 1/2 degrees. Also, what software program are you using to draw up your plans? Thanks, EWC

Author:	direwolf [ Thu Jan 05, 2012 3:38 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: How do you compensate scale length for a angled neck?
EWC&Son wrote: Two comments: How did you arrive at a 2 1/2 degree angle? I don't know what bridge you will be using, but I have found it very difficult to get sufficient low action using various tune-o-matics if I use an angle less than 3 1/2 degrees. Also, what software program are you using to draw up your plans? Thanks, EWC This is my first drawing using Solidworks and I am learning as I go. I went with the 2.5 angle because it is similar to a other flattops like a sg which is usually 3 degrees and explorers which are 2.5-3. I plan on using a pigtail wraparound and based on my drawing I actually have to raise the bridge about 13/64" off the body to get around 2/32" to 3/32" space to play with over the 22nd fret. How low of action do you usually shoot for?

Author:	EWC&Son [ Thu Jan 05, 2012 9:01 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: How do you compensate scale length for a angled neck?
direwolf wrote: This is my first drawing using Solidworks and I am learning as I go. I went with the 2.5 angle because it is similar to a other flattops like a sg which is usually 3 degrees and explorers which are 2.5-3. I plan on using a pigtail wraparound and based on my drawing I actually have to raise the bridge about 13/64" off the body to get around 2/32" to 3/32" space to play with over the 22nd fret. How low of action do you usually shoot for? Never heard of Solidworks, but I've never used a real CAD program before. About the best I can muster is Google Sketchup, and even that took some getting used to. I've not been able to use it at all for guitar designs, however. It works very well for furniture where straight lines and rectangles are king. You may be OK on your angle. I just always tend to err on getting the angle a little higher since you can usually raise (adjust) the bridge up quite a ways if you need to, but if you get the angle too low, you are screwed, unless you can figure out a way to lower (sink) the bridge. Last guitar I built had a 3 1/2 angle and I cannot lower the action quite as low as it could go. It is very playable for me (actually, just where I like it), but I do know some guys who would have liked the action a bit lower. Don't forget to account for the height of your frets when doing your drawings and calculating the angle. You will want to be able to lower the bridge enough to get the strings to almost touch or actually just touch the frets when it is fully lowered. As for "how low I shoot for," that is not something I can not put a number on. I don't "measure" my action height. I just lower the bridge until the strings begin the choke and then go up from there until I get it about where it feels right to me.

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