This is a ultra light weight stock made of 5 pieces of hard blistered eastern maple. Sanded to 320 on a air DA with a 12k rpm and and a 3/16" orbit. Dyed with a diluted metal based dye, let dry then sanded back by hand using a leveling block to reveal any sand scratches. The leveling was done with 600 grit until all scratches were removed and that is under a magnifier lens. Then the stock was dyed black again with the diluted dye, let dry and sanded just enought to bring the white color back on the hard portions of the wood.
A teal dye was then used and all excess dye was washed off using lacquer thinner. This was done to make sure there were no wipe marks in the dyeing process. After this was dry, a thin diluted dye in lacquer thinner was sprayed evenly on the surface but no much color build was done.
Then the clear coat (automotive base/clear system) was sprayed light and dry for the first few coats. This is to seal in the dry sprayed dye. After allowing these first few coats to dry, then a wet/wet coat was applied and allowed to dry 4 hrs between subsequent dual coats. A total of six were applied and then allowed to dry overnight. The finish was then wet sanded using a leveling block, I use hard rubber on the clear coat process. All imperfections, orange peel etc were sanded out then ( I typically use 800grit)the stock was coated again with a tinted clear using the teal metal based dye. Spray light coats until the level of color depth is achieved. There is a very important reason to spray light coats!
![[headinwall]](./images/smilies/headbangwalluf8.gif "Mad")
After the color coats are tacked, apply3 more wet/wet coats and let dry overnight. Make sure the finish has hardened, and if so start the wet sanding. If not, wait another 24 hrs. Wet sanding starts with 1000, 1500 then 2000. Go slow and watch any sharp corner.....again, there is a reason to go slow! I then polish with a high speed air polisher, again being real careful and slow! You can see the results! Mike
