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So I just got done leveling and crowning my frets using a homemade t-bar and a stewmac crowning file and I thought I'd pose the question, what's next? I have some fret erasers that I got from stewmac, but I've noticed the coarsest one doesn't seem to take out the file marks very well. It really just seems to polish the area around the file marks. The crowning file I used was the kind with a concave set of teeth on each edge, with smooth edges and sides of the file. I've used files regularly in my day job and really don't think I'm leaving excessive marks, but I'm wondering if there is a step after the file and before the erasers that I should try?

Also, when I was looking for tools to do this, (my first ever fret job), I noticed there were several types of files to be had such as the triangular type but settled on this as it seemed to have the shallowest learning curve. I'm curious how other people crown their frets and what tricks or tips anyone has for a newb. Also any special tools or steps to polishing frets after the crowning is done. I should mention I did by a fret rocker and have gone through and leveled the frets individually so I don't need to worry about that.

Anyways, I'd love to hear what people do with their frets

Here's a link that shows various methods:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vPypJb8h ... re=related
I used a sanding stick on my last build. It worked great, but took a long time.
I tried a crowning file but ended up with sratches and gouges.
I don't mark the frets with a sharpie: I end up getting ink on me and the guitar.
Instead, as I'm rounding the frets, I'll polish it with steel wool. I can see the flat spots much easier this way. I'm by no means an expert.
I use 1000 grit paper to final smooth and polish with steel wool. I tried one of those sanding erasers but really could not see what it was doing.

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wah
Wah-wah-wah-wah
Wah

I level with 320G paper on a flat aluminum beam. By your description I think I am using the same Stew Mac crowning file as you. I crown with the file until I have about a 0.010" wide spot on top of each fret that still shows the marks from the leveling, this ensures that I do not accidentally lower any frets. I do not use a marker on the frets, I can see the difference between the "vertical" scratches left from leveling and the "horizontal" marks left by the file quite well without that. I dress off the ends and use the 3M polishing papers that Stew Mac sells wrapped around one of my small cork lined sanding blocks. I use the three coarsest grits on the frets only with the board masked off. The final three grits are very fine and I finish polishing the frets and the board at the same time with these. Like any other finish sanding it is important to make sure you have removed the marks from the previous grit entirely before moving on. Hope this helps.

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Brian

You never know what you are capable of until you actually try.

https://www.howardguitarsdelaware.com/

Re-crowning frets is not usually necessary on a new fretboard unless they need real heavy levelling. The polishing process should remove any minor flat spots.

I just leveled and recrowned a '57 Soft V Custom Shop Strat. (mine)

To dress the frets after all the filing I used 800 grit finishing papar that you
can get from StuMac. ( taped off fretboard)
Then I buff the frets with steel wool (00000).
After all the marks are gone-which are easy to see after buffing with the
steel wool- I use micro-mesh soft touch finishing pads.
Probably overkill but the frets look like a jeweler had hold of them.

I level frets with a radius block and 400 grit paper, I have found that to be the best way to get level frets fast. Then tape the wood off and use 600, 800, 1000, 1200, then 2000 grit paper to sand all the scratches out. Then use a dremel with a buffer wheel and metal polish to get them perfect.

I use the stewmac offset diamond grit file for recrowning, which leaves a pretty good surface to start with. then I work up through 400, 600, 800, & 1000 grit paper before moving to stewmac micro grit pads. those work really nicely. With the pads I can go clear up to 12000 grit before using the extra fine compound on the buffing wheel. by not skipping grits or cutting corners this yields a really really nice looking (and playing) fret job.

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~shad peters

http://www.flickr.com/photos/petersinstruments/
http://petersinstruments.blogspot.com/
http://petersinstruments.com/

I use the diamond file too and agree with ya. Stemac has some new http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Fretting_supplies/Polishing_and_abrasives/Fret_Erasers.html fret erasers that I
haven't tried yet.

Thank you for all the replies, this is a real wealth of information. I ended up going back over the frets starting at 320 grit to remove the file marks, then to 400 w/d and finally 600 w/d before using the fret erasers all the way up to 1000 grit.

I'm pretty pleased with how they turned out for my first fret job ever, but I will do some things different next time. I will probably pick up some sanding sticks as they seem like a popular choice and are fairly inexpensive. The most important thing though will be remembering to re-kerf the fret slots after I radius the fret board so I don't have to level them as much as I did this time. (lesson: don't get over excited and rush through steps)

I'm going to be much more confident on my next neck thanks to you guys. I understood the basics going into this one but the finer points are what really makes the difference. I'll post some pics later...

went over them tonight with some 0000 steel wool and now I can barely look at them they're so shiny

I use crocus cloth for the final polishing,
been a while for a fretted instrument for me tho.

Now put your shades on and hit 'em with these- http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Finishing_supplies/Abrasives,_polishes,_buffers/Micro-Mesh_Soft_Touch_Finishing_Pads.html

Is this quartz leveling beam polished on both sides? I'm assuming it is similar to what is sold as a countertop side splash. Do you sand with the 1" edge or with the larger flat side?

I remember someone selling something like this on ebay a while ago but haven’t seen them available for a while and am looking for an alternative I can source locally.

Also, I'm just about to fret my neck and have a bit of the 14th fret hump going on. Not much, but how much is too much? My original plan was a dead flat fret board, but if I want a little fall off, it may already be there.