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PostPosted: Sun Jan 26, 2014 11:22 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 17, 2010 3:31 pm
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First name: Kevin
Last Name: Looker
City: Worthington
State: OH
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Status: Amateur
Like all of my builds, I don't post unless it's done or I have a question.

So I've been working on a variation of a Gibson Korina V.
Attachment:
BodyOverall1.jpg
Attachment:
BodyOverall2.jpg


I don't have a good drawing & I'm concerned about the neck angle.

Here's a shot of a straight edge across the unfretted fingerboard with a measurement up from approximately where the TOM will be.
Attachment:
FlyingV-TOM-Height.jpg

Currently there is about 1/2" from the top surface to the projection of the unfretted fingerboard.

Measuring off of my LesPaul build, I think I need about 5/8". Is there a standard target height I should try to achieve for a TOM?

Thanks,
Kevin Looker


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 8:25 am 
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Hi Kevin,

You should be fine where your at. I like to keep my bridges closer to the top than the folks at Gibson. My necks are set so a straight edge laid on the unfretted board projects over the top at the bridge position the same dimension as the height of the bridge I'm using. If you prefer the bridge higher off the top, the 5/8" dimension from your Les Paul will do the trick.

Steve



These users thanked the author StevenWheeler for the post: klooker (Mon Jan 27, 2014 9:29 am)
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 9:30 am 
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First name: Kevin
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StevenWheeler wrote:
...My necks are set so a straight edge laid on the unfretted board projects over the top at the bridge position the same dimension as the height of the bridge I'm using...


I'll give that a try.

I'm using Kluson's version of the Tune-O-Matic.

It seems like the window for neck angle & good TOM bridge height is fairly tight - too much angle and you have to jack up the bridge too high, not enough angle & it bottoms out.

Thanks for the replies.

Kevin Looker

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 10:42 am 
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Kevin, another option is to cut some relief under the TOM on the face of the guitar, I believe carvin does this. On my first I had a two degree neck angle and made a barbell shaped jig that accommodated the height adjusting (nuts?), and the body of the bridge. I gained another 1/16" doing this, though in the end I didn't really need more than 1/64". I'm not sure about it but it may also be possible to file some of your saddle slots a bit deeper too as long as the string doesn't bottom out on the main carriage on the bridge.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 7:13 pm 
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Kevin,
I have been eagerly awaiting to see your progress - I dig the LP you made.
Man, the Korina looks sweet!
I'd mock it up with some scrap to emulate the top and finger board thickness, and place the bridge on the top scrap to get a good angle measurement. You will have to emulate the height of the bridge bushing screws as well under the bridge.

I did not consider that you may be using a pick guard rather than a solid top.
At any rate, I'd do a mockup with the actual bridge.

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Last edited by dzsmith on Tue Jan 28, 2014 9:49 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 10:01 pm 
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I'm making a Gibson Explorer, and the string height at the bridge is around 5/8. It has close to the same specs I believe. 24 3/4 scale on mine. TuneOmatic. That Korina wood is awesome.

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