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PostPosted: Fri May 23, 2014 12:36 pm 
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Walnut
Walnut

Joined: Wed Dec 11, 2013 6:03 pm
Posts: 8
First name: Francisco
Last Name: Marchante
State: Cádiz
Country: Spain
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Hi, I'm going to assembly a DIY PRS kit and I want more or less the finish in the photo.
I know it won't be the same because in the photo has a superb burl top and my body will have a maple veneer. But I would like to know how finish like that.

How can I obtain that green? The guitar has satin finish to, any idea how to do that?
Image

Thank you


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PostPosted: Fri May 23, 2014 2:39 pm 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo
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Joined: Fri Nov 16, 2012 12:27 am
Posts: 124
First name: Jimmy
Last Name: Edwards
City: Boston
State: MA
Focus: Build
Status: Professional
You're going to think this is a smartass reply but it isnt. But to answer your question, get some green stain, stain it, get some satin clear coat, shoot the clear.


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PostPosted: Fri May 23, 2014 2:55 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Fri Apr 02, 2010 10:35 pm
Posts: 2561
Country: USA
Focus: Repair
Status: Professional
This one's orange, but the principle is the same.

In order to get the rich color, the laquer itself has to be tinted.

for this guitar,the maple was first stained with orange, then sanded back so that the satin remained in only the darker curls. Then the guitar was sealed and the finish sanded smooth, then orange tinted laquer was sprayed after masking off the edges for a faux binding. After that, the whole guitar was cleared.

For a dark burl I would leave off staining the wood and just tint the laquer, otherwise the overall shade of green will be much darker. If you just tint the laquer the efect will be a lighter shade of green. If the burl is light colored as the one in your picture appears to be, you can stain and sand back.

Just make your final coats satin.


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PostPosted: Sat May 24, 2014 7:27 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Wed Apr 08, 2009 9:34 am
Posts: 3081
Looks like Trans-Tint green to me. I'd mix up some, test it on wood till I got the strength right and dye the wood without any finish. Might go for the lighter color, seal it, and then try various sponges, something textured with straight dye after and "dapple" it on. The binding can also be carefully tinted with the TT. You will have to mask off the top after you have dyed and seal it, scrape the binding and then tint the binding. The important part is to try lots of scrap maple till you get it right, and put several coats of clear over the scrap "test" pieces to be sure you are getting what you are looking for.
Satin has to be sprayed. You don't get to buff it after. Lacquer can be bought in various degrees of satin, you can buy spray cans if you don't have a gun and booth, and you can also buy flattening agents to add to gloss lacquer if you spray from a gun.
Nice ax!


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PostPosted: Sat May 24, 2014 9:04 am 
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Walnut
Walnut

Joined: Wed Dec 11, 2013 6:03 pm
Posts: 8
First name: Francisco
Last Name: Marchante
State: Cádiz
Country: Spain
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Thanks for all your answers. You are helping me a lot
Do I have to sand after spaying satin clear? How many coats of satin more or less?
Order would be:
Stain green(sanding between coats)-> Spraying satin clear coats-> Sanding??


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