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Devin, welcome to the forum and the wonderful world of guitar building. First, while I have no experience with 8 strings, I have built a couple of teles and here is how I would approach your questions.
I seriously doubt that you will find plans for something that esoteric, but there are lots of tele plans available - the lutherie forums, several commercial suppliers. Google, find a basic tele plan, buy it, take it to Kinkos and get a couple of copies.
Next, select your bridge and pups and either buy them or get specs from the manufacturers web site. On the bridge you want to know basic footprint, string spacing, amount of vertical travel for the saddles, and possibly mounting screws. If you are going to make your own bridge then lay these things out. You'll want the foot print of the pickups and make sure the bridge pup fits the hole in the bridge.
From the neck you want the scale length, width at the nut, width at the body joint (16th fret), radius and dimensions of the heel (the part that fits in the pocket of the body).
Lay both of those items out on your plans. Draw a line from your outside nut slots to the outside saddles. Make sure that line is the distance you want from the edge of the fretboard and is parallel to the edge. Normal spacing is 0.100 to 0.125 - a lot depends on your playing style. If you are not using a commercial neck then lay out that spacing at the body joint for the one you will make.
Now I think you will find that the neck is wider than a 6 string tele and therefore the pocket will also have to be wider (that is why you probably can't use a ready made body). You'll also probably find that the routes for the pups and maybe the electronic cavity are too small or in the wrong place - sketch yours on the layout. You'll want to make router templates for your pickups so get accurate drawings from the manufacture.
Last thing will be the depth of the neck pocket with sets the string height over the top and particularly at the bridge. Whatever your neck radius is (7, 9. 12 inches) you will need to be able to adjust the saddles to that radius. You will also need to be able to adjust their heights to get the action you want over the fretboard and still be within their range (of course lots of teles have neck shims because that just didn't quite work out). I find it very help when building a tele to route the neck pocket not quite as deep as you want it, fit the neck and bridge and strike a line with a straightedge from the nut to the top of the saddles. You can always make the pocket deeper, if its too low you'll be installing a shim.
As far as the 4 x 4 headstock, it just won't look quite like a tele, but that's not necessarily bad. In fact it really doesn't matter if its a flat or angled headstock, whether the truss rod adjuster is at the head or body or anything else. A couple of minor points - if it is a flat Fender style headstock can you fit tees for any strings that might need them? Also, if you make it too weird shaped it might not fit a standard tele case - custom cases can get pretty expensive.
Lastly, as far as the cut of the wood - it really doesn't matter either. My last tele-clone was made out of 100 year old pine from an old barn on a local homestead - it is slab cut and has the most beautiful grain swirling thru it and knot holes in the back.
Good luck, let us know how it goes. I always recommend Melvyn Hiscock's book - he builds three guitars including a tele clone and talks about neck angle, geometry and lots of other valuable stuff.
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