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Hey everyone,
So I am going to be doing my first neck shaping for a telecaster with a rasp and I am not very confident with the idea of rasping but I have no idea how else I would do it other than by hand. Any tips with hand rasping a neck? Do any templates (templates for neck contour at 1st fret, 5th, and 12th) exist? What else do I need other than a rasp, bastard file, and ruler? I also have a spokeshave, how well do those work for neck shaping?
Thanks,
Benjamin

Have a pattern on hand (Tele neck you like) and some scrap wood and carve 4 or 5 necks for practice.

If you bought the Hiscock book that I recommended in another one of your threads you'll see how he carves his neck with a spoke shave and shure form (a kind of rasp). I also use a little block plane, chisels, and a little sanding drum with 50 grit paper in a drill motor.

Do all of the operations that require flat square surfaces first - planing or bandsawing the headstock, thicknessing and cutting the sides of the heel. Make two templates with cross sections, usually at the nut and 12th fret - most plans will have these. Make copies, cut them out and paste on heave cardboard or 1/8 mdf - carefully cut those out and shape to them. Measure the thickness and width at two points (nut and 12th usually) and check the width at the 21st. Remember when you are talking about the thickness that the fretboard is thicker in the center due to the radius.

If you want to copy a neck that you really like (recommended) this little gizmo makes it a cinch.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Contour ... rizzly.com

Just press it against the neck you like at the nut and 12th fret, then trace the shape and make a template out of it. I frequently have people bring me a guitar that they like and I duplicate the neck.

Also remember that everything is very critical at the heel - you want it to fit snugly in the pocket and be on centerline of both the neck and body. I would recommend not routing the body or drilling holes for the bridge until you get the neck made and fit to the pocket - that way you can fudge the centerline if you have to.

Have fun, shaping a neck is one of my favorite parts of building.

Advice? Carving a neck is like having sex,
Go slow-be gentle, use protection(gloves)
and allow nature to take its course.

note: I mention the use of gloves. It might be good idea as when using the rasps and files the serrations can damage the fingers-as can knives.
Anyone who plays guitar a lot knows any damage to the fingers can be a problem-especially the ripping of fingertip callouses of the left hand.

_________________
You just pick up a chord, go twang, and you're got music. -Sid Vicious

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K2Wxw3YFHsg

I enjoy Fletchers videos. I do many guitar building steps very much like him.

Contour templates? I don't know because I prefer to go with feel and measurements for various - I like and play most all except hard V's and don't like very thin necks- personally I prefer stability in a neck. ( I don't use gloves carving or playing )
Like him...I really enjoy carving the neck. Hope it's a good fun trip for you too Benjamin.

Rasp wise.... I like the Nicholson #49 and my big long Auriou #12..... Do not neglect a file card.. As these are required to unclog rasp teeth.... Make 100% sure you use a good handle on your rasp. That pointy spud is very non-ergonomic and can even cause some horrific injuries if the rasp hangs and your hands are sweaty.....

Note that many rasps are "handed"...

A "Right handed" rasp cuts faster and more smoothly when worked from right to left... It tends to gouge and leave tracks/scrapes when worked left to right.... This may seem like a small thing - but there are plenty of times you will need to go "backwards" left to right when shaping the neck... And you don't want to leave a bunch of deep gouges behind.

The last thing is that a conversation on doing necks is incomplete without the word "Sandpaper". Get a couple rolls of fabric backed sandpaper. 1" and 2" wide work well for neck work. I would get a roll of 80, 120, 150, and 220.... Use this to do final shaping, fair out the curves, and smooth the thing down without leaving flat spots.

Thanks