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Hello,

Ok, let’s start over again with a new build. This one will be a ziricote and spruce baritone. I got a little head start on it a couple weeks back.







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A bit of progress yesterday.

Back braces are on and sides are ready to bend tomorrow.





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Made a number of parts today for the ziribari. The lining is paulownia. I follow Burton LeGeyt’s tutorial from here to fit the lining to the taper in the back. Works like a hose!













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Looks like you are firmly in the construction zone these days. That's a nice ziricote set. Looking forward to watching this one.

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Thanks, Jay. Making good progress on this one so far. Hopefully I’ll continue to have a good amount of shop time.

Sides are bent, lining cut and the blocks glued in. I’m trying something new by pre-shaping the blocks on the CNC. The body shape is one I designed in g-thang and so it was easy to model up the block in a way where it was a perfect fit to the mold. Just a little cleanup sanding was all that was needed.














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Looks good for closing the box on ziribari this weekend! Plus, resaw a bunch of paulownia lining for future instruments.






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Good progress today. The rosette is in and top is braced. The back is attached. I included a few process shots of how I notch the V braces for the bridge plate and notch the cross brace for the V braces.














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Box is closed and binding channels cut. I’ve been referring to her as ziribari. She looks good with some shellac on.

Pandemic beard!!









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Simple end strip and binding scheme. Left some skin behind.











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It’s a trap!








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Getting down to the last few construction steps!




















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Mortise and tenon is done. I used a drill jig with the LuthierTool neck angle jig which I designed and cut on the CNC. It lets me drill the hanger bolt hole while the neck is still on the jig. This ensures the hole is perpendicular to the tenon.











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Might be spraying by next weekend!












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You're on a tear here. Do you always build at this pace? That's going to be another really nice instrument.

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I am moving quickly for sure. I have long gaps in shop time due to the day job so trying to take advantage.


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I no longer have a day job but I still have lots to keep me busy. It amazes me sometimes how much progress I can make when I can get 6 or 8 hou RSS in the shop. Nice work too Brad!

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Gonna try a new finish…




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Made it to the spray booth. Looking forward to experimenting with the urethane finish.




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Sealed and porefill done. I had a setback when the first attempt at porefill ended with the binding totally delaminating.

I took a step back and spent time to figure out the issue. The Cardinal porefill needs more time curing with the UV lamp. This caused the plastic binding to heat too much and warp / let go. This by itself shouldn’t have been enough to cause such a failure. I used CA to install the first bindings by taping, tacking & flooding the bindings with thin CA. After further inspection of the failed binding I can see that the glue didn’t wick very far down between the layers. A second issue is that I forgot to scuff the plastic binding glue surface. My thought is that these two issues combined is what caused the failure.

I used a different method to put in the second set of binding. I used medium CA and used a pipette to put glue in the channel directly and between each layer to be sure there was plenty of glue surface. I worked around a few inches at a time making sure there was plenty of glue. I will likely use this method going forward.





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Got the first coats sprayed and cured. Going to let it sit overnight before scuffing and putting the final coats on. The TDS said 2.5 wet mils = 1 dry mill, which is dead on from my test. The Cardinal stuff is quite a bit different than the Simtec in terms of % solids. Will take a little getting used to. I don’t think I’ll need to add any solvent. Probably just straight out of the can. I added 10% acetone for these first coats and had a few small runs. Nothing that can’t be fixed easily with some attention during the scuff between coats.







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Got some free time today to get through buffing. I like the way the polyurethane buffs compared to the polyester. I had to spend less time on each compound.






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Wow! That's really impressive.

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Once in a while you get shown the light in the strangest of places if you look at it right - Robert Hunter

Here are a few pics of fretting. I have tried semi-hemi fret ends on this one using the fretting tool from OLF member Nigel Forster - https://www.nkforsterguitars.com/luthier-tools-2/

This was the first fret job using it, and I have to say I liked the results. I used the fretboard proxy as usual to cut the frets to length and trim the tangs.



Once trimmed, the ends are touched up on the disc sander and then shaped using the diamond file tool. It runs in a drill press at 1k rpm.




After filing, I used gray scotchbrite to de-burr the ends and then polish on a buffing wheel with color tone fine compound.



Here’s the results:







Located the bridge using the UkeTools centerline and bridge locator (tm) and sanded in the footprint:









Brad

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