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Hi. I am sick in bed, so I thought I'd do a doc u build with pics from a variety of builds I've done.
I'm gonna keep it short and sweet, and not go into bracing, or anything else that most know how to already do.
I don't know how to caption pics, so I'll just put the pics in so they make sense.
Ready?
Let's go!
First, here's the only good picture of me, looking fhrough the ribs of a "Phin".
Just so ya know what I look like.
Next pic shows my mould, which is flat, and my pipe, which is heated by a 500 watt soldering iron.
I put parallel sides in the mould, and make the headstock with a saw and chisel,
sandpaper, etc.
I carefully fit it to the top of the sides, being careful with the angle,
and fit against the ends of the sides, because you will see that on the finished instrument.
Last pic should be peg head installed if I do this right.

So, the next thing I do is sand the arc on the ribs, still in the flat mould.
I take some of it off by hand with a plane, so I don't need to sand so much.
I carefully measure my progress from the mould to the top of the ribs.
I built my go-bar deck and sanding sled with a 25' radius.
They aren't domed, as I think an arc is better for a Weiss than a dome.
Plus, I didn't have to buy a radius dish! .
I made a template with a 25' radius out of 1/2" ply,
used that to shape the cross pieces, with varius sizes of 1 to 1 router bits,
screwed them all together like floor joist, kerfed the 1/2" ply so it would bend to that arc nicely,
and voila!
Next, glue the kerfed lings in, leaving them proud a bit,
sand with the sled until everything on the top of the sides and the kerfed linings has been hit.
Next, put the flat mould in the go-bar deck, with the sides still in
Glue the top on.
That's when I make my bridge and fretboard, which of late I've been using tung oil on.
I lost the pic of the mould in the go-bar deck, but I think you can figure out how that would look, can'tcha?

The next day, I pop the beast out of the mould it came out!!
I say that, because I forgot to make my mould with a release,so I can't split it.

Once out, route edge of top,then set up the bridge.
I have that luxury because, I already know where the nut and saddle will be.
Gotta cut those pins down!
Then I draw the side profile for the back,
( I just made a cardboard template from the plans, to get it close).
Just bend it around and draw a line.
Then I hog of most of the wood with a knife and/or a block plane.
Back to the sanding sled, with the go-bar deck taken apart, and the top facing down, anchored with a
piece of shaped ply screwed though the souldhole.
This keeps the 25' arc on the top.
If the ply doesn't keep the edges down on the arched ply,
I'll add some weight to it where necessary.
You have to look at the gaps under the sled, and carefully try to apply pressure where needed.
I also stop, and take the sled off, and eyeball the profile.
It's like fairing a boat hull.
Glue in the kerfed linings as before, sand them as i did the top,
then slap the back on when the humidity is right!
Hope I gave anybody any ideas!
Alan

Yep...that gave me some ideas.

I like the sanding sled. I'd made individual 1" x 25" cross arched supports for forming an arc in a back but hadn't thought of doing the sled. The idea of using the side template after the sides are bent had escaped me too.

Thanks Alan!