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I want to try to resaw my own lumber for my first project. Being new to lutherie, how can I recognize quarter sawn lumber? Been advised not to buy anything w/too much runout?? What does that really mean?? I've looked on the Forum for pictures and have yet to find any. I just don't want to be sold something that is not quarter sawn. Does anyone have any clear photos? I want to use mahogany. A supplier that is 120 miles from me says he's got some. I want to go shopping and need some advise. Price for African Mahogany is about $55 for a 8"x 10'x 1" board. Sound fair??
Thanks,
David/Wyoming

David take a look here.
http://royalcraftsman.com/quartered-rift.htm

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Dave, I know that there is a good description of different wood processing types in Cumpiano's book, do you have that? Guitar making: Tradition and Technology. It's what a lot of us have started out with. It's a good book and will get you through the entire build.

Here is a link to google images when I searched for quarter sawn wood.

This is probably the best picture I could see on quater sawn wood, see how the grain lines run vertical like this IIIIIIIIII and not like this ////////// although the second is slightly off quarter, that much of an angle would be acceptable, depending on the wood.



And this is taken from Charlie Hoffman's website on quarter sawing and runout.

QUARTER SAWING AND RUNOUT: Both of these factors are a result of the way in which the wood is cut. Quarter sawing means just that -- the log is cut to length (usually blocks of about 24") and then cut (or preferably split) into quarters (called billets), and the boards are then sawn off the resulting flat sides. The result is (hopefully) wood in which the grain lines are vertical to the surface, or close to it. This works better in wood like sitka where the trees are very large and less well in wood like red or Appalachian spruce where the trees now available are often quite small.   Runout refers to another form of grain, which must run parallel to the flat plane of the wood. This is best achieved by splitting billets out of the log, rather than cutting them. Both of these conditions are highly desirable, even essential to quality instruments. In brief, they contribute to a high strength to weight ratio. This is important since strength is necessary to resist the pull of the strings and weight (mass) is an "evil" as it will dampen the tone of the instrument. Fortunately, there are now a good number of suppliers who are very knowledgeable about how to cut guitar wood.   As a result, the quality available today is the best it has been in my career.

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[QUOTE=Bobc] David take a look here.
http://royalcraftsman.com/quartered-rift.htm[/QUOTE]

Hey Bob, check out this walnut

Walnut

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"There's really no wrong way, as long as the results are what's desired." Charles Fox

"We have to constantly remind ourselves what we're doing....No Luthier is putting a man on the moon!" Harry Fleishman

"Generosity is always different in the eye of the person who didn't receive anything, but who wanted some." Waddy Thomson

I do what Todd does, But I use a pocket knive to shave the ends. I shave two places on each end, one toward each edge. Another thing I do with Mahogany is look for straight grain and the amount rays on the face of the board. A well quartered board will have rays in my experience, the more the better.

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Joe Beaver
Maker of Sawdust

Agreed Joe about the medulary rays, cedar and spruce are a very good example of it, when well quartered, there are lots of medulary rays

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My Facebook Guitar Page

"There's really no wrong way, as long as the results are what's desired." Charles Fox

"We have to constantly remind ourselves what we're doing....No Luthier is putting a man on the moon!" Harry Fleishman

"Generosity is always different in the eye of the person who didn't receive anything, but who wanted some." Waddy Thomson

A great place to begin your education is the book, Understanding Wood, by R. Bruce Hoadley. Widely available.

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Todd Rose
Ithaca, NY

https://www.dreamingrosesecobnb.com/todds-art-music

https://www.facebook.com/ToddRoseGuitars/

With respect to runout, check out this article I found in an old ASIA mag.

Craig Carter Article

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Brock Poling
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.polingguitars.com

[QUOTE=wyodave] Price for African Mahogany is about $55 for a 8"x 10'x 1" board. Sound fair??
Thanks,
David/Wyoming[/QUOTE]

That's about $8.35 a board ft. It is usually $6-9 around here. I'm thinking if it is nice wood, then the price is probably good.

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Joe Beaver
Maker of Sawdust

Wow!!!!!!!
Thank you all for the informative material. You've answered my question, and made for some real good reading. It's great when people take the time to explain some of the more basic stuff about lutherie.
I did buy Cumpiano's book about a year ago. My project is a Weissenborn cause I've played reso guitar for about 26 years. The book is helpful from a basic knowledge about guitar building of course.
It's tough to find hardwood where I live, little lone wood long enough for a Weissenborn. Some of the wood suppliers here(OLF) have it, but, I figure to save a little and resaw myself. I'm so afraid to ruin a nice set of "ordered" $200 or $300 wood. At least if I resaw I can obtain another piece if I screw it up.
Thanks again to all who were kind enough to "Chime In"!!

Dave