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So this may be a bit of an odd question but there is a method to my madness...

I made a template today in Rhino of a Martin 00-14, in Rhino training they taught us to use the X Axis as the long one so like a good student I did so, but on the table the long axis is the Y not the X...

So which to use?? I can easily switch the table or I can switch how I draw things in Rhino (there might even be a setting to swap them...

I switched the model in Rhino and it worked but now it's standing on it's head, not what I was hoping to see. I'm curious to see how you guys do it, I hooked up the router today and am going to make a template tomorrow at some point, I've got most of the features figured out at this point...

Cheers

-Paul-

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-Paul-

Patriot Guitars

[QUOTE=Sprockett]

I switched the model in Rhino and it worked but now it's standing on it's head, not what I was hoping to see.[/QUOTE]
I've done that too but found that I rotated it in the wrong view. You might mess with that a bit to see if you can rotate it in the top view instead of front view (or visa versa).

Paul, most machine tools have the X as the long axis.
Here's a tip that might come in handy at the machine also.
If you take your left hand and make a coordinate system using your thumb, index finger and middle finger all at right angles to one another, the middle finger become the +X vector, index finger the +Y vector and the thumb becomes the +z vector.
In fact the only ones I've seen that aren't that way are yours and mine and believe me it gets confusing when it's different than every other macine tool out there, for me anyway.
Jim_W38956.0042939815

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Jim Watts
http://jameswattsguitars.com

I asked a similar question on the Rhino list and got a similar answer so I'm going to switch the machine, fortunately it's just two plugs and the motor tuning settings. The drawing was right on Paul, the issue is that on the machine the Y axis is the long one which is the opposite of what rhino is (actually it's called left and right axis both with the Z pointing up).

My goal is to remove the confusion when I'm setting up parts for the first time, I'm pretty sure once I get this worked out I can start cutting some simple parts. The other thing I need to figure out is how I'm going to clamp the part in, that's one of the last pieces of the puzzle for me....

Thanks

-Paul-

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-Paul-

Patriot Guitars

I have my controller set to flip the X / Y orientation making the Y the long axis on my 39x22. I always model in a natural orientation and if I need other orientations to machine it (bottom-up, side etc) I'll copy the objects to a new layer and change the orientation of the COPY for the programming.

I'll check MachII, it might do that for me now that I think about it...

I think either way I'll have to change my motor tuning settings, I had it down to where I could jog it to within less than an 1000th of an inch... Oh well it's all a learning exercise at this point

-Paul-

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-Paul-

Patriot Guitars

Paul--You can do an incremental jog in Mach2 by holding down the ctrl key when you press the axis jog key. You can preset the amount of the incremental jog to anything you want. That way you don't have to slow down your max speed on the motors.
Nelson

I should have been more clear Nelson, what I did was tune the motors so that when I issued a g0 x3 from x0 for instance it would be exactly 3" down to the final thousandth (when I actually ran out of rotation steps to tune in). I've got the Jog stuff working pretty well, I just need to remember to put it in step mode when setting the height on a bit

I also played with the backlash and got that down to the same range, took some tinkering but the machine is dialed in now.

I switched the X & Y and moved the X home/limit to the other side so it zero right where I want it too. That means that pulling drawings from Rhino will be in the same axis orientation that the machine is in, my brain has enough to worry about as it is..

Cheers

-Paul-

_________________
-Paul-

Patriot Guitars